Monday, March 11, 2013

Key West Cemetery

I posted pictures a while back of well known people interred here but there are lots of pictures to be taken in the cemetery.

The cemetery used to be at Rest Beach until a 19th century hurricane washed the coffins out of the ground and the burial ground was moved inland to the edge of town.

That the town grew out and surrounded the cemetery simply put these 19 acres in the middle of modern Key West. It was not originally intended to be in the middle of the city.

It is a tourist attraction as well, though the Sexton gets annoyed by people who treat his charges as though they were just attractions and not the last resting place of real people belonging to real families in town.

After many years of pleading with the city money and attention seems to be flowing into the cemetery with visible improvements to the signage, the care of the tombs, grass cutting and pointing of damaged cement.

 

The water table doesn't allow much digging, even if you had a mind to dig a hole in solid rock so people get their permanent resting places well above ground.

And those put in the ground suffer the consequences of the peculiar geography of this place. Subsidence happens.

The cemetery has a monument to the sinking of the USS Maine, which sank in Havana harbor in 1898 and whose sinking was a pretext for war which netted the US Puerto Rico and Guam and influence over the Philippines and Cuba. These days historians suggest wet coal gave off explosive gases in the hold that caused the sinking but it was the Gulf of Tonkin incident of its day.

The cemetery to my mind makes a good neighborhood for houses alongside its four sides, no bars no noise no living people.

Bicycle tours have been banned because the Sexton deemed them disruptive to funerals. Scooters suffered the same fate. He is the defender of the families not a facilitator of tourism, which makes him rather delightfully unique in this town dedicated to the pursuit of pleasure and money in equal measure.

There are lots of fascinating headstones here as in all elderly burial areas, and the stories aren't always clear. Three men, all of the same last name of similar ages dying within a year of each other.

In defiance of the One Human Family bumper stickers the cemetery is divided into different faiths, including the Catholics who live in death behind their own gate and the Jews who have their own corner.

Key West is home to the oldest synagogue in Florida, a fact that fills my wife with pride even though she married outside the tribe of Israel and is thus excluded from membership. There have been acts of vandalism here because nowhere is exempt from stupidity and swastikas have appeared on tombs.

The Jewish headstones do not always have the date of birth on them and flowers are not left on the tombs. One is supposed to leave a stone placed with the left hand (don't ask, I don't know why) as a mark of the visitor. It is said early Jewish tombs were marked with piles of stones and the stones visitors left were supposed to keep the tomb visible in their natural surroundings. Some seem to do better than others in the stone piling stakes.

And the aeroplanes fly overhead, in this case the seaplane from Fort Jefferson. Nowhere in Key West Seems to be exempt from noise, which is why I prefer to live outside the city.

If you are afraid of death don't be put off visiting the cemetery, it is filled with life. And tons of photographic opportunities. The Key West Historical Society offers guided tours if you want to do the job properly.

Key West Cemetery

 

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Seascapes Under Gray Skies


Sometimes you need to stand at the water's edge and instead of looking forward to a hot summer's boating, you just need to stop and look at the horizon.

I love seascapes unruffled by wind and waves. It's like a huge Japanese meditation garden.
Unless you are my headless dog who prefers hunting in improbable places to enjoying the view.
A sentimental appreciation for Nature's beauty is not Cheyenne's strong suit.
Neither is it I dare say, for a flock of ibis going about their business at the park at Bay Point.

A Challenge To Love

Say what you like but it takes a special talent to love Marathon.
This is the heart of the Florida Keys?
Not only that but the city forces you to drive the north end at an absurdly slow speed until you get on the Seven Mile Bridge.
Marathon is a stretch of four lane Highway One on either side of Mie Marker 50, and the city makes no bones about its industrial roots. Where Key West is a tumble of wooden houses on narrow lanes, Marathon is a set of straight lines spiking off the Highway, those to the south described as "Ocean Side" those to the north as "Gulf Side."
Marathon wants tourists and some people do stay here in what is euphemistically called a family friendly environment which is to say Marathon does not have a reputation as a gay haven, which Key West does even though the gay component of the Southernmost Coty has been shrinking over the years.
The Border Patrol station was built here to much opposition as it was viewed as likely to bring the wrong element to town, which is kind of weird as the Border Patrol ere doesn't deal with what you might call hardened criminals. Most Cuban migrants want a fast ride to Miami and a new life with their prosperous American relatives.
I was amused to see the Bimbo Bread sign over the town. When i was traveling through Mexico I sued to see the brand for sale everywhere, the equivalent of US Wonder Bread, and equally tasteless. Amazing really in the land of delicious corn tacos.
Marathon isn't scenic, it's all light industry, boats fishing dust and zero landscaping.
Cheyenne naturally found a park with thick soft grass and a chance for a rest.
The boatyard was for sale with a few boats left over in the yard. It had an air of decrepitude and the usual dustiness of a boatyard.


Marathon has a few fish restaurants worth eating in and they do a lot of fish chasing in this town.
But for some people this really is the heart of the Florida Keys and its what they want for a vacation spot or a place to live. It's a bit bleak for me though we did consider buying a house here once.
I like the utility of certain stores, the Home Depot is easily accessible, there's a great liquor store in town and Publix for some reason is bigger and better in Marathon. I also like the Driver's License office and the hospital better than their equivalentsbin Key West. But most of my life is pointed at Big Pine and Key West and that's where I go. Crossing the Seven Mile Bridge to Marathon usually happens as part of a trip to the mainland and. Hats when Marathon s a 45 mph wide spot in the Highway. Besides I like the color and madness gays bringbt a community of boring straight people like me.

Saturday, March 9, 2013

100 Montaditos

Key West needs another chain restaurant! Well, you wouldn't think so but I've never heard of anywhere quite like one hundred monta-deetos, a Spanish themed sandwich shop, that has landed in Key West on Fitzpatrick street across from Kino Sandals.

As locations go it's aimed at the tourist trade certainly but it makes for an interesting possibility for locals too, looking for a cheap and filling meal unlike any other in town. The chain is actually based in Spain and was founded in Andalusia in 2001 according to their website, in Spanish. They have 230 restaurants in Spain and sixteen elsewhere including Andorra, Portugal, Mexico, Colombia and... two in Miami and now one in Key West. So this is a chain but not like you'd imagine most chains to be in the United States and if you don't live in South Florida you won't see this place anywhere else in this country. So far.

It's a pleasant space inside the restaurant both cheerfully bright yet welcoming. I ordered the food at the counter including a $3:50 mug of some Spanish beer of which I had never previously heard, Mahou, a light honeyed lager with a big frothy head on the mug.

The sandwiches are simple European style small servings on proprietary breads with none of the usual American mustard-mayo-lettuce folderol. The ham shown below came with a delicious pesto dressing but otherwise they are very plain with first rate ingredients. And there really are a hundred varieties, including seafood and vegetarian, carefully labelled on the menu. You order by number and presto, sandwiches and chips with a side of fries appear as if by magic.

Ten dollars had me stuffed and the breads really are crispy and delicious. I liked the elderly Franco-era black and white photographs crowding the walls. They made Spain look like a 19th century memory buried in the recesses of my mind. I remember riding my motorcycle across Spain just after Franco died and I recall an air of suppressed enthusiasm as the country waited to see what the new King would do with a country grown weary of Fascist dictatorship. The photos seemed as far away as that motorcycle trip in my youth.

I liked this place a great deal and I can imagine a visit here with friends would open wide the possibility of sharing flavors and buying a much wider variety of the relatively small sandwiches to pass around for a bite.

Bloomberg calls 100 Montaditos the "Spanish Starbucks" as executives plan to open 500 franchises by 2015 all around the Americas. Critics naturally think they are overestimating the speed of expansion.

Meanwhile Key West has its own private sandwich shop on Fitzpatrick Street. Different and interesting and nicely done. Well worth a visit.

 

Friday, March 8, 2013

Olive Oil, Horsemeat And Clear Skies

 

It is said drought will raise the price of olive oil by degrees of magnitude in the coming months. It seems a prolonged dry spell across southern Europe has shriveled the supply of fruit and wholesale prices have gone up 60 percent according to an astonished press. My sister in Italy grows olives among other things and her family operates an olive press so perhaps the news isn't all bad. However I find it odd to read the news after listening for decades to stories about how the European Union had to pay farmers from southern Europe for crops that were flooding food markets across the planet. Butter mountains, wine lakes and tons of unneeded olive oil. Not so any more, thanks to the stormy weather sweeping the planet.

How odd it is that we have been told for years that cooking and flavoring with olive oil is good for our cholesterol clogged arteries and now, as we have obediently absorbed that incessant message the price of the life saver is set to sky rocket. Well, bollocks.

Not to worry if you had paid attention to maverick investors around the planet you'd have been sinking your spare cash into agriculture futures because while our leaders dicker about and ignore climate change our business overlords smiled to themselves, ignored the chatter and wisely invested in dirt to take advantage of said changes which the working classes are advised are not actually happening. No one I have spoken to remembers a warmer winter in the Keys, which doesn't mean anything, except that it has been delightfully sunny for most of the winter. And another massive snow storm sweeps the northern reaches of the continent.

I was astonished to learn that IKEA, the cheap furniture chain bakes its cakes in China and ships them to twenty three countries around the world. It seems bizarre to me that hiring local bakers and stocking shops with the fruits of the work of local hands is eschewed in favor of slave labor in China to produce cakes but that is the world made by machine. Now it seems the Chinese slaves have failed to wash their hands or their machinery or something because there is evidence of shit in the Chinese IKEA cakes. Quality control used to mean things were made of decent products and tasted good as a result. Quality these days means uniformity across the chain. An almond cake in Fort Lauderdale tastes the same as one in Stockholm. And we hope has the same proportion of fecal coliform. What a world.

I am one of the lucky ones with a great job and good health and a life below the snow belt (I feel lucky about that anyway!) and as I walk under this lovely blue winter sky I wonder about the world around me. They say seas are rising putting my beloved Keys at risk, they say cheap oil is running out and everything in this world is made with petroleum, even our very food is fertilized with it astonishingly enough. Horsemeat is sold as beef so corporations can increase profits in a world made by machine.

You wonder why meat eaters get up in arms about horsemeat and it's all in the mind of the eaters. Cow, sheep, pig or horse; what's the difference? The difference is that we didn't sign on to eat horses, animals viewed as pets by some. Of course race horses are forgotten after they finish running and we ignore their fate, shipped to Canada, killed and ground up for hamburgers for Eurosavages. Except our neighbors across the Pond were fed horse on the quiet, as a scam, so righteous anger wells up. Horsemeat? Horrors! Solent green is people! Remember that line?

To be opposed to Walmart is mark one as an elitist depriving the workers of cheap goods that they demand. It's an interesting way to reverse the equation if you ask me. I wonder why the argument doesn't go that we should pay people enough to buy local goods from local stores which in turn employ local people. Why is it better to buy pressed wood furniture from IKEA and eat shit flavored almond cake from China on poverty wages instead of being able to feed one's family from food grown locally and manufactured locally.

We are told by critics of the left that we must be self reliant and look after ourselves which is, like Communism a nice idea. The unfortunate thing with the theory, like Communism, is that it doesn't seem to work in practice. Wages have been shrinking for decades, debt has been used as the building block of social control and the law has been bent to serve the powerful in a way that hasn't been since the 19th century robber barons and the early 20th century industrialists made the world in their image.

So how precisely does a working stiff plan self reliance when wages stagnate, pensions are abolished, health insurance costs are out of sight, while mortgages and student loans are doled out to "enable" borrowers to meet costs that rise implacably to suck up whatever debt the borrowers are allowed to borrow. The main two reasons our grandparents lived on one salary while modern families need debt to supplement two salaries are the costs or housing and the costs of medical care. Cui bono? Why, corporate America benefits from the debt Americans have run up. Funny that. We loan you money for a thirty year mortgage and house prices rise to increase the size of the mortgage you need to borrow! Freedom is debt! It's the American dream...

I spoke to my neighbor yesterday afternoon, a retired county worker whose wife is tiring of her second job and wants to retire from that too. He says they will probably have to retreat to southwest Florida, Port Charlotte perhaps, as retirement in the Keys is too costly. He talked about the rising cost of food, of gas, a man who has done his life's work as one should, who needs to shrink his life on three pensions to seek peace of mind. And he has social security and Medicare as well. Does anyone think the future of the next generation will end in peace of mind? With 93% of the nation's income going to one percent of the population why should a bleak future surprise anyone who wasn't born into the wealthy classes.

They tell us we can't afford anything anymore in this country, not for the people who live and work here. We fight wars for oil companies, we subsidize foreign corporations with tax breaks, we hire mercenaries to support our armies and run our jails. They tell us social welfare programs are unaffordble as though it's our fault that a federal deficit exists. Our president wants as little to do with job creation as do our corporate leaders but instead he wants to surveil us with drones and kill us with them if "necessary." So now that it's not Pakistanis and Afghans he proposes to drone to death, we suddenly see drones as an appalling threat to our humanity. They say horsemeat hasn't yet invaded our shores which is nice, the icing on the IKEA cake as it were. Wages are dropping so fast even Walmart can't squeeze a profit out of its China made crap any more.

I'm glad I get to see the sunshine each morning and the glitter of palms waving in the breeze, and the sound of a happy dog snoring at the end of a day's walk. So far we can still afford the olive oil for the salad and petroleum for internal combustion. As long as they don't start selling soylent green at Winn Dixie I think I can keep my shit together, and off my hot buttered crumpets.

Have a great weekend. I propose to after a grueling week of Spring Break dispatching.