Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Conchscooter On Dawn Patrol

It has been a glorious weekend, three nights off in a row for the first time in probably nine months of endless continuous overtime. Mostly I slept. I spent Saturday and Sunday getting up and going to bed with a little light eating and dog walking inbetween. And then I slept some more.
Which also meant Cheyenne, now fully recovered from what appeared to be a snake bite, decided it was time for a pre-dawn walk. The Labrador commands and I obey.
Sometimes the  evocative nature of Key West streets  by night  gets over ridden by the weird decorating styles I come across. I am not certain why this Festivus pole was illuminated, or even why it was planted next to the leafy tree, but it was and it was brightly illuminated. 
Cheyenne's impatience with my photographic meandering also leads occasionally to some light and motion studies. It was cool and breezy and the elderly,  and the formerly almost deceased Labrador pulled a Lazarus on me and was dragging my by  the leash such was her hurry.
Aside from the occasional car  shooting past the intersections there was no sign of human activity anywhere. Someone asked on Facebook recently on one of those re-post things  what would you do upon discovering you were the last human left on Earth.
Breathe a sigh of relief and walk the last domesticated dogs in the silence, I replied. I do my best to recreate  those circumstances any  pre-dawn walk, with more or less success.
The first sign of life was the beach clean-up machine, the closest local kids will get to seeing an agricultural tractor in action. It tows a  trailer with a rake arrangement and sweeps up the dead seaweed and human trash and leaves the sand ribbed like a Japanese ornamental garden.
Higgs Beach parking lot collects  debris rather in the manner in which the beach collects dead seaweed, only this lot are van residents, and car campers who drift in to the city from a night spent who knows where and they sit in their cars like hermit crabs in their shells and stare at the beach through their windshields as though afraid of getting too close to Nature.
I imitate them by observing nature through the lense of my Android camera.
As the sun rises dogs appear and if you want to know how to avoid conversing with your fellow humans, try walking a dog. People are utterly terrified of letting their dogs get anywhere close to your dog. Some look mournfully at my dog and ask if she is friendly, to which I reply not really, at which they recoil before I manage to explain that Cheyenne is indifferent to canine contact for the most part. Not friendly, not aggressive, just uncaring. By then the worry warts are long gone.
Sometimes I say actually Cheyenne is a Navy reject military dog. They were training her alongside dolphin to kill and maim large swathes of people, and they laugh with me at my carefully disguised attack Lab, mooning around sniffing sidewalks and tree trunks.
Someone had a day off and decided to spend it putting coconuts in a large peace symbol on the beach. If pressed I dare say I'd have no idea how to spend my time more fruitfully. Walking around with a metal detector is not on my list of preferred hobbies. Besides I think to be good at that you'd want to go off the beaten path and seek out something more interesting than lost dentures and stray bottle caps in the sand. 
And here, in front of the fine Salute Restaurant we have a combination of birds, locals in white stepping with dignity and in silence. The two black incomers tear up dirt and spread it everywhere, they make noise and shout aggressively. 

I know which insect mauling birds I'd rather have poking around my front yard:
Done, finished and ready for breakfast.
The attack Lab in stealth mode, waiting for her prey, preferably baked fried or grilled.

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Conchscooter Is Grumpy

I woke up yesterday morning at 5:30 and all I could hear, over the loud rhythmic rumblings from my sleeping dog was the sound of heavy rain on the tin roof. By the time we got to town three hours later the sun was out, it's true but so were the people. And the mercantile offers were on display. Water at this Greene Street convenience store really was on offer at a bargain price where drinking is sold for twice as much or more. Cheyenne took the free offer, preferring draft to bottled.
Further along the old Red Fish Blue Fish restaurant appears, mercifully! to have closed forever. I do not remember their conch fritters fondly, and what precisely possessed me to eat there years ago I cannot recall. However this is the apex of the triangle of tourist assault on Key West's attractions, the invisible thread between Sloppy Joe's and Mallory Square and far to the south, the Hemingway House on Whitehead Street...so I suppose whatever comes next won't be aimed at a recurring clientele, any more than the previous occupant.
So, there I was grumping along, as you do, trailing my dog and wondering in what other manner Key West is to be defaced when some cheerful man came up and introduced himself. Hi I'm John he said and I read your blog everyday and I know you don't like to meet people. Well bugger, did I say that? And so I feel like an asshole and I am going to do better. I get muddled up trying to remember small talk but not talking too much and then I feel awkward because I don't know what crazy thing I said that he might have noticed and all this is going round in my head like a disturbed hornet's nest.
So here's the thing, by all means say hello and I will do my best. I promise I won't ask for money or cigarettes which is about the level of most street conversations around here as long as you don't talk about the weather. In 2015 I am hoping to practice small talk so I need your help. Thank you.
Meanwhile I determined not to allow the prospect of a full week of 60 degree night time temperatures to make me grumpy. Key a West is still lovely, just to walk and look at:
Cheyenne isn't dying anymore, indeed she is as stubborn and unsentimental as ever, but I am not going to be annoyed at her when she turns her back on me and refuses to cuddle ( which is almost always).
I am not going to wonder what the hell these peculiar signs mean. I am just going to enjoy them. See? I'm cheerfull, very approachable, just like my dog.
Okay, this one is not on my list of things to be cheerful about. Garbo's Grill was rated best Key West restaurant a while ago, which seemed odd. I liked Garbo's well enough but the best seemed to pitch things a bit rich. However in my new guise as a cheerful man about town rating a lower Duval tourist trap as "excellent" seems simply marvelous.
Of course Key West recycles. And pays attention to the very small print. Pretty soon we'll overtake Seattle in our collective commitment to the environment. (Grumpy Conchscooter says fat chance but he's now officially suppressed).
Grumpy me says apostrophes have become instruments of the devil. Surely the artists of the fabled Studios know the difference and will apply the correct spelling very, very soon. Says I smiling broadly.
I stopped in Key Plaza to buy stuff at the new Publix, no longer wondering what arse decided Key West needed two Publix supermarkets next to each other in this small town. It makes taking 911 calls more complicated than necessary as not everyone knows which is the "new" versus the "old" Publix when they are stressed out and in trouble.
Parking with no consideration? No problem, take all the spaces you need, I'm sure you are working on improving your driving skills as you can find the energy. Who me, grumpy? Never in life. Come one come all, park badly write illiterate signage and rate mediocre as excellent. I am very approachable you will find.

Monday, February 9, 2015

Little Hamaca City Park Photos

It was another glorious crisp sunny day.
 So I decided it might be time to drain the colors from the pictures
The park boardwalk is getting new ugly metal handrails...
 ...to replace the more attractive wooden rails from an earlier time:
 
The city park hasn't changed much in the grand scheme of things.
 Cheyenne was in the mood for some urban forest exploration.
 She is my alibi in a place where men are known to cruise  for sex. Odd that, in a town where being gay doesn't raise an eyebrow but I suppose there are lots of reasons to stay in the unhappy closet, not all of them political but personal.
 Here too we find weird ditches, dug to house mosquito fighting fish in the good old days of endemic yellow fever.
 "Him and his camera!"

 And nearby the airport, momentarily caught in monochrome.
 There, that's better!
 Delta hauling people away. I like watching them go, knowing I am where I want to be.
 A girl needs a pause between walks.
 Snowbird relaxation:
 My colleague Nick was learning to fly in this plane which recently fell out of the sky while on a charter. No one was seriously hurt but Nick has decided perhaps his flying career is closed, perhaps prematurely but while he is still in one piece.
 I keep telling him: motorcycles are much safer.

Sunday, February 8, 2015

Duval Street 2008

.


Duval Street, hotbed of iniquity and vice, home of unbridled drinking and wild street parties, fights, vomit and rivers of spilled beer and islands of abandoned plastic Dixie cups. If there is a heaven and a hell I expect my hell will be Duval Street at 2am for the rest of eternity. However at 9 am filled with Blue Heaven's pancakes and buzzing from several cups of strong coffee Duval Street looks almost human to me.I went to Blue Heaven but many people looked happy enough breakfasting at the scene of last night's debauchery while these two fine specimens of vacationing womanhood were enjoying their private terrace at La Concha, ignoring the toiling masses in the street below their hotel:The cab driver saving gas by keeping his windows open while he waits for a fare:The street sweeper cleaning up the debris in the gutters:Then there is the city employee hosing down the sidewalks to prepare the street for fussy visitors who prefer not to wade through trash on their way to get toasted:Some are already busy at the bar in Sloppy Joe's at 9:19am (I checked my watch):And I am forced to wonder how many tourists in Key West have ever seen The Bull looking like this:Nothing quite so forlorn as a bar all closed up. I caught this guy, an advertisement for a real living wage if ever I saw one, toiling up Rose Lane:All those beer bottles that get thrown away empty, not recycled, arrive on Duval by human power, even in the early 21st century. And there is the vendor at Duval and Eaton who will spend the day getting toasted on his own (by the sun) selling Key West made trinkets. He starts his long day hauling his cart into position by hand:While across the street at St Paul's relief is at hand if only one has the patience:And don't forget the lunch time organ recitals which are delightful and free and start at 12:10pm and last about half an hour, in the cool recesses of the church.


One line at the end of the essay persuaded me to include this page in my occasional retrospective of seven years of blogging about the Lower Keys. That was the mention of the Top at La Concha now gone and no more suicides will be coming from there unless they decide to get a spa treatment first. I didn't know Roger back then and his Made in Key West cart, but he is still there and I get my colorful dog collars from him (for my dog, not for me). But Duval is Duval and I expect in another six years it will be similar if not exactly the same.

Early Duval

Even at breakfast time Duval Street has its share of tourists, if you want the main drag to yourself its best to get here well after 4 am, which is when the last bars close though the crowds will take a little time to disperse. Or show up sometime before 8 am when the street is almost empty except for the early workers buying coffee and cycling to their places of employment along the street. By 9:30 Duval is waking up:
The operator at the Hyatt booth was kind enough to help out some faceless visitors seeking directions:Some other early birds on Caroline Street were getting last minute instructions on bicycle riding, as they wheeled off their rentals:Bicycles are an excellent low stress way to get around town, especially if you're on vacation and it doesn't matter if you show up sweaty and hot. Mopeds are a close second and for those who rent cars I found these next two pictures, shot on Charles Street, to illustrate an obvious parking point:Bear in mind these are likely locals vehicles and it usually doesn't pay to park like a local in Key West as parking enforcement and property owners usually know and recognize vehicles that belong in outlandish spots. Technically its not legal to lock a bike to city sign or street lamp but it would be an unlucky tourist that got her bike removed by Public Works during a brief stop. Riding the wrong way down a one way, even on a bicycle can get you a ticket, especially if you have a shitty attitude. As far as parking goes you can't beat a bicycle. And, by the way, if you have a few extra bar stools you don't need this is where you can dump them apparently:
Telegraph Lane is not quite as neat as Duval, because this is the tacky back side of Duval Street the place where the work gets done that keeps the illusions whole on the front side. It's also a short cut to Front Street and a place where rain puddles making it even more disreputable after a summer thunderstorm.
Back on Duval I walked past these family types and I could have sworn I heard one of them remark on the similarity of a bong in the window to one they had at home. I must have imagined it:I've remarked previously on the rather poor taste of many of the t-shirts displayed on Duval Street and some people think bongs, typically used to smoke marijuana shouldn't be on sale either. But there they are all lined up for inspection. Rather more prosaically there is a small grocery store on Duval Street and goes by the name of Shorty's, and I've never even stopped off to buy water here, but for some reason, probably because the air conditioning beckoned, I stepped in.It was quite the revelation actually, like a real grocery store with all sorts of useful items for the forgetful tourist. I ended up spending $13 on stuff that looked pretty good to me. I got the Turkish coffee as a taste test for my wife who has a trip planned there (Turkey, not Shorty's) with some girlfriends in September, and I'm quite partial to Patak's curries so I bought a couple of meals in a box I'd never seen before. I've since eaten one and they are quite decent too, hurricane food or for a quick dinner at work:
My final tour de tourist was to tag a group of cruise ship visitors who were getting a guided walk around downtown. I missed most of the speech on La Concha but I think he was going on about suicides from the top of the hotel

Most tour guides tell the story that people who jump always leave behind a glass of chardonnay at the top of Key West's tallest building. Don't ask me I've never checked. And with that crowd shuffling off I found Duval starting to wake up with both eyes open and thus it was time for me to go home and enjoy the last hours of my "weekend" off.