Sunday At Home

Nothing to report today as Layne is in bed with a worsening cold, Rusty is in great shape and full of energy and I am in charge of managing our lives no mean feat.

After a heavy rainstorm last night with much wind the day has broken with bright sunshine and cold crisp air so the first order of business was get the fire going, so far much smoke and small flame as the damp wood burns. Whoever designed our chimney did a great job as the flue draws remarkably well.

We have a wall mounted electric heater in the bathroom and I’ve got that going so all I have to do now is wash the dishes and sort out the kitchen, collect more firewood and drive into town for a few supplies for the sick patient.  I feel very suburban. I had hoped for a short road trip to enjoy the road a bit. Oh well just another winter day in Uruguay.

Now, where are Rusty’s pills? Bloody dog…

Colonia Valdense

Friday was my day to lounge and read so Rusty took it upon himself to join me though he is not, despite his many attributes, much of a reader.

Layne cleaned some drawers aboard GANNET2 in preparation for re-stowing eventually, Adrián repaired a self propelled tree cutter while Maria-José cleaned and aired her suitcases ready for her car trip to see her family in Argentina.

On Thursday Layne went grocery shopping before we took Rusty to the vet so that gave my dog and I time to go for a walk around the town of Colonia Valdense. There are some classic cars in Uruguay, here a Citroen Mehari, the beach buggy chick magnet of my hopeless youth. 

Businesses are tiny, built into or around homes in these little Uruguayan towns.  Brash self promotion is not their style.  

Correo means mail.  It looks to me like a kind of sub post office in a stationary store. 

The bush sniffer hard at work.  

This corner store has the concession for intercity bus tickets. 

Boring and peaceful is Uruguay. Bolivia is on the cusp of civil war, Colombia is having elections  and explosions while Brazils elections later this year pit a far left candidate against a far right candidate. The middle ground in politics has evaporated. Except in Uruguay where tranquility rules.  The combined armed forces amount to 25,000 personnel whose major task is serving in United Nations peacekeeping forces around the world. Belligerence and coups are no longer Uruguay’s style. 

3200 people live here but Wikipedia has some interesting stuff on it: Colonia Valdense was founded in 1858, following the arrival of Italian immigrants from Piedmont, especially from the Waldensian Valleys and the Aosta Valley. The town is named after Pierre Valdo, a French merchant, founder of the religious movement known as "The Waldensians". The Waldensian Evangelical Church, which is now a Protestant church, has a strong presence here.

Clean tidy and middle class nowadays though there are poorer sections. 

Rusty finds it fascinating. 

Winter leaves everywhere.  

Rusty At The Vet

The short version is that Rusty is doing well after the “neurological event” that floored him two weeks ago. The vet checked him yesterday afternoon and prescribed another week of reduced medications along with his regular daily glucosamine to build up his joint strength.  He got his check up on the lawn as he hates doctors’ offices…

We promised to return next week and with that we hope to be back on the road in ten days or so. Uruguay continues wintery cool, sometimes sunny and boringly predictable.

Robert the American solo traveler (front left) is on his way in his LandCruiser to Buenos Aires where he likes to joke he will look for fine dining and hot women.We had a last dinner all together in town.

I had a Wiener schnitzel (“milanesa”):

While Adrián and Maria-José had giant steaks: 

And Layne and Robert had smoked pork chops in a delicious citrus glaze: 

And we went all the way with dessert which it turns out is Maria-José’s favorite course:

She’s had them all  and prefers a brownie with ice cream. Robert tried the crème brûlée:

While Layne and I shared a local delicacy called a Principe Humberto, a mess of dulce de leche, crushed merengue and crushed cookies with whipped cream or raspberry or strawberry sauce as variants.

There isn’t much information online about this dessert unique to Uruguay also exported to Spain’s Canary Islands where apparently they have a version. I can’t figure out who invented it or why or where the name comes from  but it is native to this country.

A very pleasant evening out  even for Rusty who got tail ends of steak and a walk. 

I am tempted to get sentimental every time I look at him but I am trying to keep it under control. As Layne put it he has made a considered effort to stay with us when he could easily have dropped out so I guess he really is enjoying his strange nomadic life. I know I’m enjoying it with him. 

Glucosamine Day

 

Adrián and Maria-José have a couple of cats they rescued  and they rule the roost with the exception of a twenty foot no go zone Rusty has created around our cottage.Robert the American has finally got his Land Cruiser camper sorted to his satisfaction and is leaving for Argentina. We aren’t quite yet.

Rusty spent yesterday snoozing apparently wiped out by his afternoon on the beach so we decided to let him rest  but Layne had discovered there is a fish truck in Colonia Valdense on Wednesdays from 9 till noon so we climbed aboard GANNET2 and left Rusty to nap as he declined to join us.

The lady in line in front of us overheard Layne tell the fishmonger we were from the US and she asked me how we like Uruguay.  Very pretty I said, and peaceful. Peace is important she replied with a twinkle in her eye.

Our lives here have taken a peaceful turn I suppose when the event of the day is a ten minute drive to buy some hake fillets and some fresh Uruguayan shrimp.

The guy was cheerful and helpful directing Laynes attention to what they agreed she might like. I’m not sure it’s visible but the fish names behind him were reproduced in English:

Then we drove to the gas station and bought some $8:25 a gallon regular. The attendant was cheerful and laughed when I explained as always that gringo vans  use gas, or at least our Promaster does. At least you speak Spanish, he said. Two weeks ago a Russian tourist came by to get gas. What a problem he laughed remembering his struggles to communicate.

The winter sun was a pleasure to see but a 59 degree day felt much colder for some reason. The day passed in a haze of napping, collecting firewood, reading and watching Rusty snore. Not exactly a life lived radically. 

I also rather brilliantly managed to stick my elbow through a glass pane in the door as I struggled to close the latch which was particularly sticky. Adrián called a glazier who showed up in less than half an hour in his Chinese truck with all necessary gear.

I tried to picture such a rapid response in the Keys where getting work done was more of an annoyance. The glazier also fixed the door latch and checked a couple of windows Adrián plans to modify in the main house. And an hour later it was like nothing had ever happened  and my elbow had long since stopped bleeding. 

We’ve started Rusty on his glucosamine regimen to get his legs stronger. Our plan is to take off as soon as the pills take effect and he gains some strength. He’s still a bit too wobbly for van life. 

I can easily afford a little boredom to give him time to heal properly; he’s worth it.

Rusty At The Beach

 

Ten days ago I was in tears saying goodbye to my friend. Yesterday the little runt went for a romp on the beach. I guess he fooled me and I’m delighted and he seems to be also.

What? Him worry? He is a little wobbly in the hind legs but at this point I attribute it to his lack of glucosamine as mandated by the vet who said he has to finish his stroke medication first before getting his joint pills, and I hope we can start him again after he gets his final check Thursday. You can see in the photos his hind legs are a little weak looking.

At the beach? Indeed we drove five miles to the shore of the River Plate and even in winter it looked quite pleasant.

Think of the Great Lakes, fresh water yet with small tides in this case but you can’t see the opposite shore of the River Plate. Argentina is over there 45 miles south of here. 

It was a day of fissures in the overcast, much enjoyed slivers of blue in the persistent oppressive cloud cover of recent days.  Next week the forecast promises endless days of cold crisp but sunny winter weather across Uruguay but yesterday we did get a taste of a little sunshine along with a reminder of the color  of the sky when not covered in cloud.

We had bought a slightly bizarre looking picnic tray at the supermarket because we are suckers for cultural experimentation. It was I’ll admit not something we’d try again…a little dry and lacking flavor I’d say but it did the job with no clean up required.

And the Serrano  ham chips tasted of…potato chip and nothing more. So much for cultural exploration but the beach was splendid. And while I’m in the confessional let me say I really liked this picture of my boy except I screwed up and put the focus on the tree. Nice work. Sigh. 

You can imagine hordes of summer holiday makers here on a beach almost deserted in winter.  

Almost deserted…the eternal quest for fish captured by Layne and her camera:

We ignored the “no dogs” part of the sign figuring there wasn’t anyone to piss off as we were alone on our stretch and the summer homes lining the street were unoccupied. I mention the ban to Adrián back at the workshop and he looked surprised.  “There are dogs all over the beach in summer” he said. Hmmm. 

Herewith some pictures of a lovely day at the beach.  I’d like to swim here in summer. 

He needs glucosamine to strengthen those hind legs. 

The seaside village of Playa  Fomento was deserted but there was an ATM which as usual limited us to US$100 but was better than nothing. Most places take credit cards luckily. There was also a hardware store but all the eateries were closed. I’m guessing some few places might open on the weekend but the place was dead as you might imagine. 

The approach road drive straight through the usual rolling  farmland, the patched  and lumpy asphalt lined with shade trees as is often the case in Uruguay. 

There are cottages to rent and second homes to buy here: 

A retired old gringo could do nicely here pottering out with his dog to stare over the flat waters of the River Plate, listening to the sound of guns across the northern hemisphere: 

No earthquakes, no hurricanes, no claims of election fraud in South Americas most stable (and boring) democracy. 

Permanent residence is easy to obtain but we have a van and we’ve got places to go and tires to wear out: 

And a dog to keep entertained. 

Uruguay is a place to bear in mind if you want a retreat from the hurly burly of real life.