December has barely begun and already we are getting frozen in the Florida Keys. I am perfectly aware thank you that this is a sore subject for people who are employing snow shovels and are walking on water, but as far as I am concerned the recent temperatures in the sub tropics have been, to put it bluntly, Fucked Up Beyond All Recognition.

I awoke two mornings ago with one hand incautiously lying outside the covers and it felt like a block of ice. If this goes on much longer we will fire up the reverse cycle air conditioning, which we ran for four months last winter, which was intolerable. Frankly I don't think it is at all suitable to get into the car to take the dog for a walk and see 56 degrees (13 C) at this hour of the mid morning.

Cheyenne loves this weather as one might imagine. Arriving home yesterday morning after a long night of not doing much I just wanted to crawl into bed after stripping off my freezing cold motorcycle gear. Yes indeed, I rode to work Wednesday night knowing full well it was going to be cold. Cheyenne greeted me by prancing around and the standing hopefully by the car door. With as much grace as I could muster I stuffed her in and drove five minutes across the island to the Ramrod Pool, an open space surrounded by sturdy bushes where she can wander at will at 6:30 in the morning and I can hope to discern a few headlines in the paper as daylight arrives in all it's glory.

Yesterday morning it was COLD. All right I know that in Minnesota or Finland a chill winter morning is some degree of frost beyond anything I can imagine but the temperatures here are laced with water vapor and even hardened skiers and stuff from Up North admit a 60 degree (15C) day in Key West can give a seasoned person goosebumps.
Besides its all in what you are used to. I remember once I was driving across North Dakota with my fiancee and her family and we stopped for gas outside Bismark. It was a sunny day, bright and fresh after a snowstorm had blown through filling the countryside with drifts of frozen water. My leather jacket clung to me like a sheet of frozen cardboard, my woollen hat sat on my head allowing shafts of piercing cold to drill through the holes in the weave and drive into my skull like ice picks. I tottered out of the Toyota van (a four wheel drive contraption that could plough through any amount of foul weather) and offered to fill up the gas tank. My fellow North Dakotans were standing around in minus 20 degree weather (-29 C) in t-shirts as though it was summer. I could barely operate the fuel pump and my breath felt like razor blades slicing my chest from the inside.

Thursday evening I didn't bother to ride the Triumph to work. Rain had fallen while I was sleeping and even though the skies were filled with thick billowy gray clouds their celestial insulation did not help to raise the temperature. I took Cheyenne for a walk on Big Pine and after about 55 minutes the skies opened and rain started spattering through the pine trees. We aimed for the car and started walking fast.

I don't usually mind the rain but rain
and frigid cold is over the top. It sucks. It's unnatural. It makes me ask myself why I am not living in Charlotte Amalie or Frederiksted, or someplace close by, in the true Caribbean, the true tropics, America's true Paradise Islands- the US Virgins. Probably I'm not a USVI resident because I like road trips, I like a lower crime rate and I enjoy the weather in the Keys 49 weeks out of the year. Well, at least probably 45 weeks. More than 40 weeks out of the year for sure. Especially if you don't count unbearably hot weeks in August and September. It's not clear in this next photograph but my Labrador was looking at me in adoration yesterday morning and her tail was wagging nineteen to the dozen. Her thirty minutes at the pool had made her a happy girl.

From Richard Machida's Blog in Fairbanks Alaska (opinions expressed are certainly not those of an institution as august as the University of Alaska and anybody who suggests otherwise is an idiot) I read about the trials and tribulations, minimal really, of refurbishing an elderly BMW motorcycle. I have a vague unformed hankering for an R100RS the first factory faired sport touring motorcycle ever built and I find his blog encouraging.
http://blog.machida.us/ However there was a throw away line at the end that gave me palpitations. It seems it's a good time to strip the bike because:
This morning, it was -33°F. The weather is trying to make up for the unseasonably warm temperatures of last week.
Holy crap! -36C, how does one cope? I keep pestering him to detail a day in the life of someone who lives this Ironman life and he shrugs it off as just no big deal. Looking out the window at the black clouds and rain I feel my will to live seeping out through the soles of my feet.

There is another blog,
http://www.behindbarsmotorcycle.com/ which in his latest essay presents as clearly as anyone ever has the muddled attitude someone like me has to the whole notion of outdoor winter sports.
What stuns most folk below the Mason-Dixon though, is going outdoors in winter - for fun... sledding, snowmobiling and the most admirable, ice fishing. All of which are popular enough to warrant entire industries producing goods to keep them going. Hobbies that require a resistance to frigid cold in addition to a healthy lack of good sense. And, if you don't know what ice fishing is, it involves a truck, a frozen lake, boring a hole, and sitting around all day waiting for lethargic, half-frozen fish to find your hook – And, is also a great way to keep your beer cold without your wife ever knowing you bought it. Not the kind of activity for a people afraid of the cold. Better suited for a people who think, that like climbing Everest, something difficult is something worth doing - something worth striving for.
My wife is one of those, raised in Northern California who has never appreciated the cold. She was armed for bear when I crossed her path at the gas station at the end of our street. I was coming home from the pool, she was on her way to work, to teach the little dears wrapped in wool with Ugg boots on her feet.
Her language was not at all ladylike as she pumped regular gas at $3.11/gallon into her car. Her Sebring has heated seats and this time of year they are on all the time. If temperatures drop below 80 degrees (27 C) and she wants the roof down, on comes the heated seat. That's her tolerance level for cold. She has announced at last that the heat is coming on at the homestead, and we are among the lucky ones who actually have central heat through reverse cycle a/c at our house. Lots of people don't.
I remember last year we arrived in Asheville, North Carolina about this time of year to visit her sister's family in the mountains. It was cold, and they always tell us, "It's not normally this cold in Asheville." Or "It hardly ever snows here." And every time we show up the weather turns to shit. Just as it did last year, because when we showed up it was twelve degrees (-11 C) and we were seriously frozen. We staggered into the house where the family was gathered to greet us and instantly they treated us like mental deficients. Of course it's cold, where's your cold weather clothing? Of course we had on every stitch of cold weather clothing we had and when they understood our plight out came the puffy jackets and wool accessories and the sympathy. That's right, we don't actually possess cold weather clothing around here. Last winter people were getting cold and lamenting they had no socks, never mind parkas, in Key West.
There is a saying which I have heard attributed to Norwegians which goes something like this: "There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing." And there is a great deal of truth in that. However in the Keys one doesn't plan one's life around periods of exceptional cold. If last winter's long freeze is emulated this winter we may have to reconsider as climate change or whatever alters our patterns of local weather. Tourists come to the Keys to lounge by the pool, to throw of their clothes and their cares in varying degrees. They don't come to huddle and to try to ignore roiling gray clouds and piercing cold wind. The Keys are sold on the (false) premise that these islands are tropical and that they are a Caribbean Paradise. Much of the time they live up to billing but for a few weeks in the year they don't. And it sucks all round. Partly perhaps because when the weather doesn't suck around here it is absolutely perfect, summer or winter. But when it does suck I shall make a point of whining about it. If you choose to live where there are seasons and there is snow and you do it by choice my hat's off to you. When the weather, the great attribute of my home town, lets me down, I might as well be shovelling snow or wearing electric motorcycle gear. And that's not something I'd do by choice. Not without a lot of whining.
24 comments:
The fishing guides I know in Key West have been investing in gloves and beanies. I feel like if I were down there now it would be shorts weather. But I understand that it isn't what you bargained for when you chose The Keys as a place to live.
May warm weather and warm breezes head your way. I always tease my friends in all parts of florida about the cool weather. I had a dog that would have to be bribed to come in out of the snow. At least Cheyenne is enjoying the cool temps.
We are still lucky down here. People in Europe are dying for want of heat. I still need to whine though.
Message In A Bottle (found off Ram Rod Key);
Can't hold out much longer... Temperatures plunging to the borderline recommendations for serving English Beer... Fought my wife for possession of the dog last night... I had to use a bat to make sure she got the message... I get the dog in December and January... She gets her in July and August... It is so cold the iguanas are crammed against the bottoms of the doors... We let them stay there as they reduce the draft... But iguana breath is horrible, smelling of fresh lettuce eaten out of flower pots... I rode to work on my motorcycle today, wearing a 1940's US Navy surplus deep sea diver's outfit... I nearly froze my balls off... Tomorrow I will put the element from a discarded hot plate into the suit... My Triumph may only hit 8 miles per hour as as all of the juice from the Lucas alternator (all 3 amps of it) are sucked into the hot plate... But the three hour ride to work (16 miles) will be worth it if I can stay warm... This cold snap may delay the exotic banana crop, by a good ten minutes... Why do we continue to live in this frozen hell? Save us.
Sincerely,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads
How is it your Triumph has a digital dash and a huge chrome clock as well? This is an odd combination, is it not? Something is not right here. I will call on you presently. Please have the necessary documentation handy. And I don't want to hear any shit about the dog eating it either.
Sincerely,
Irving Blatz
Factuary Actuary to The Motorcycle Blog Community
Southern Florida Division
Key West Office
1-800-HOT-BUTT
Dear Sir:
Have you tried filling the tires on your bike in August? Then when it gets really cold outside, you can bring the bike into the house and let the warm summer air out a few pounds at a time. The effect is even more pronounced if you do this in a small closet.
I am delighted to share other valuable tips to living in the hellishly barren wastes of Key West with you from time to time. Could you please leave some money in the can on the fence post at the end of your driveway in exchange for this service? While the barbecued iguanas are good, I can't trade them for toilet paper.
Sincerely,
Trevor Tilson
Former Science Advisor To The Current White House
Current Occupant
Iguana Paradise Cottage by the Canal
Ram Rod Key, Florida
Dear Occupant:
It has come to our attention that you routinely broadcast to the world that local temperatures would frost a witche's left bazoom, and that you are reduced to stealin clothing from washlines to keep warm.
Do you have any idea the negative impact this has on the tourist trade? Key West relies on blue-haired women and Q-tips (dottering old men with white hair and white shoes) to get us through the seasons when the painted sag dicks and European school teachers (with floob tits) aren't here.
Things are bad enough around here without you advising the world you eat chili to ignite the fumes to keep the house warm. Would it be too much trouble to write "how the early morning fall breeze waifts the aroma of hot coffee through your kitchen, stimulating your appreciation of a motorcycle ride to the office — free from humidity?"
Would that kill you?
Sincerely,
Federico Maltesta
Ram Rod Key Retirement Real Estate Development Committee
Dear Editor Key West Diary:
I enjoyed the part of this blog where you got to walk your dog on the near frozen beach of "Kiss My Ass Key." The International Monetary Fund made me eat my dog. They stood here watching me do it, before turning the water and lights back on. I'd blog about it but they took my computer and all the silverware on their way out.
Paddy O'Reilly
Broken Rock Farm
Finderne, Ireland
Michael Battie
Ram Rod Key
USA
No Norwegian ever said, "There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing." That is a Swedish expression. A typical Norwegian expression is "A hundred Swedes ran through the weeds, chased by one Norwegian."
Please be advised that in Norway, our constitution allows women to kill husbands who complain about being cold in temperatures that would ripen tomatoes.
Thank you for publishing this letter on your blog.
It is important to get these things straight.
Sincerely,
Kris Kristopherson
Norwegian Cultural Office
Dear Ram Rod Key Resident:
We are pleased to introduce you to the Acme Acquatic Mammal House Heater. This unique device will keep five large rooms at 88ยบ (Fahrenheit), burning only two gallons of liquid fuel per month.
The fuel burns cleanly, without odor, nor soot. It contains no petroleum products and may be ingested to relieve joint pain. What is this incredible fuel?
Pure Sperm Whale Oil.
Not commercially available in the United States, this by-product is purchased in limited quantities from Japanese research institutes, who use only old, sick, misguided, whales, or deranged ones convicted of politically crimes or felonies. (Did you know that swimming in the ocean is regarded as a felony by some Japanese prefectures?)
But wait... If you act now, we'll send you a baby sperm whale suitable for raising in a canal for only 1200 payments of single Kugerand coins. This cute baby whale come pre-driled for an oil spigot on top and readily eats giant squid and iguanas, commonly found on Ram Rod Key
Operators are standing by.
Sincerely
Fuji Yakatori-sama
Chairman - Asian Cash Disposal Program
The Rayburn Building
Washington, FU
*sigh* I hear you. I'm a south Florida native. There's no acceptable reason for me to HAVE to own jeans, a jacket, or shoes other than flip-flops. Do you know how hard it is to adjust to wearing closed-toe shoes after spending the last 10 months wearing flip-flops? It's like walking through some sort of alternate universe.
Well bugger.
All I wanted to do was whine a little bit.
Ps the Fabulous Florida Keys are fabulous even when it is arctic cold. bring your malfunctioning bwm down on a trailer and ride it aroudn in low humidity and almost frezing temperatures/ you will have a blast.
My feet are cold.
How ironic! I just found your blog and am reading it for the first time today. I DO live in the "real" Caribbean, near Frederiksted on St. Croix's north shore, and I can't WAIT to sell our house and move to Key West because it's just too damn hot here most of the year, and, as you say, crime is a real issue. I know 58 degrees feels like minus 20 when you're used to the tropics, but from my perspective I'm thinking, "Hey, at least I could put on a sweater or long sleeves once in a while!"
Doctropic in St. Croix
I have been reading your blog for a while now - and I live in Wisconsin - of course, I wish I didn't. Even though it is about 25 here today, with about a foot of the damn snow on the ground and another foot to come over the weekend, I would actually take that 56 over the 25 any day. And the damn temps are supposed to be in the 0 range next week. Coming back to the keys in April, so I guess I have to just wait until then to warm up. I tell everyone in my family and some of my friends, "Look you choose to live in WI, you cannot complain about the damn weather". But of course that is what I am doing right now - LOL!! Love your blog and love your thoughts!
Dear Victoria and Wisconsin. The only bromide is to keep muttering "this too will pass." It won't pass but there's not much else to be done.
Dear doctropix. When my wife and I were sailing central america I used to lie awake at night and muble something about how i missed the cool summer nights in Santa Cruz and how I wished I could get under a duvet one m ore time.
Be careful what you wish for is all I can say.
PS please get in the habit of ignoring Jack riepe. He is dying of envy in snowy pennsylvania right now and it makes him as mad as a wet hen and just as lethal.
Mr Conchscooter:
59F sounds really good. when it only gets up to 8c. We have to keep the dream alive for another 4 months
bob
Wet Coast Scootin
How exciting, I'm quoted! You must have gotten the box of cash, then.
Seriously, though, it's flippin' cold up there. I'm worried about flying back to MN because there won't be enough room in my suitcase for real boots. Damn. My time outside is going to be short and spent bounding around and screaming like a little girl. That seems to help a bit. At least I can always know that even if I'm bitching about the cold here someone further south is doing the same. At least I can feel hardier than SOMEONE, even if they live in the Keys. Of course, I get demolished by the heat.
Brady
Behind Bars - Motorcycles and Life
What twisted weather we have - it's 60 degrees and sunny here in Reno NV!
WEather, wait around and it will change.
Now if you receive snow in Key West, then we will know the Jetstream has gone for a dump.
In the interim enjoy your wonderful dog and keep in mind petrol, regular unleaded here in this part of Ontario is all of C$1.12 a litre. Understand petrol in the UK is about a pound twnety for the same amount, of fuel.
Now don't you wish you had a heated seat and heated handlegrips on the triumph?
Ask Reipe, he may have such on his K75?
Poor boy. Whining will accumulate attention, at the very least. Thanks for a very entertaining read ... now, off to walk on water -:)
You are just trying to make us cry like babies. Well, it won't work. As Sarah Palin would say, you need to just "Man Up"!
Jimbo
chuck from Fleming Street here...
I'm in Seoul typing this.
it's cold.
stop sinveling.
PS - riepe has entirely too much time on his hands as evidenced by the preponderance of ficticious posts.
Fine. I'll stop snivelling. Your bikes are scheduled to appear here next Friday. Hope war doesn't break out this week. Send pics if it does.
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