Showing posts with label Alabama Jack's. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alabama Jack's. Show all posts

Monday, October 25, 2021

Don't Forget Your Keys

——This was my final post as a Keys resident. Click the title at the top of the page for my latest entry. I’ve posted here since 2007 and still post here most days from my life on the road. Cheers Michael ————

Monday 25th October 8:00pm 
Rest Area in Alligator Alley I-75
As you read this I have left the Florida Keys and Van Life begins. I am happy about this change in my life, this page therefore is no longer a diary about a place or fulfilling other people's fantasies but a true record of where we go and when and how we make the journey. I used to laugh as I slipped under the toll booth awning at Alabama Jack's, in the days before they automated the Sunpass toll into the Keys.  The Keys I shouldn't forget! It will be difficult to do that.
I prefer Card Sound Road to the idiocy of the two lane Stretch between Homestead and Key Largo. The state decided to keep The Stretch down to two lanes in order to lengthen potential hurricane evacuation times. This would supposedly hold back development as the Keys have to able to be evacuated in 36 hours  under threat of hurricanes. By creating a no passing two lane road the idea was evacuation times would take longer and fewer homes could be built.  The net effect is road rage, illegal passing and tail gating as cars hurry to get to the next passing zone as quickly as possible. My last piece of Keys advice? Take Card Sound Road and pay the Sunpass Toll around a buck and enjoy a laid back drive.

The Seven Mile Bridge, my wife's commute for many years, is the goal of anyone who drives the Keys, and you can wave at Fred the wild tree still flourishing on the old bridge. I shan't see the Christmas decorations this year but I am fairly certain a boatload of pirates will sail to Fred and light the lights.


I hate to say it but at this point it can be said: Highway One has become over trafficked and is struggling to handle too much traffic. The new road has served since 1982 but the Internet allows anyone to work from home, to live where they want and everyone with money wants a slice of the safe tropics. That means too many people which means slower travel times which is okay if you are new because your expectations are what you find. Year round tourism is new and tiring.

Our escape pod is a slow moving box that will take the right lane and pull over for following cars. No schedule, destination uncertain, speed not fast, 60 miles per hour to save gas and wear and tear.  Frequent stops, so we step aside to allow those with deadlines to get where they are going. In Michigan this had the unfortunate effect of nice people pulling alongside instead of passing and asking us if we were okay! Dirt roads are in our future, lots of exploration, wild camping, street parking, boondocking in the manner of 21st century nomads.

Young Rusty has new horizons and a familiar home. I can't wait to share it all with him and with you, if horizons beyond the Keys hold any interest. Many of you have said they do! I promise frequent updates, lots of pictures and places you've never heard of. I told you of my former neighbor who wrinkled his nose when he asked where we were going and I said Patagonia. Where's that? he said. I've never heard of it. He'll see it in glorious technicolor if he stumbles across this page. Fingers crossed and off we go. First stop: unglamorous St Petersburg  for the first of some non Keys goodbyes (Webb will be next).  Rusty is enjoying van life, new smells on new horizons.

I stopped this Monday afternoon briefly to take a couple of pictures, my last in the Keys. Layne was driving the Fiat 500 to it's new owner in St Petersburg so Rusty and I were alone, and he took the co-pilot's seat.
"Thanks for Visiting the Florida Keys" the sign says nowadays but still I promise not to forget my Keys. They were a good time, a special time filled with friends and things to see and photograph. Like one reader said this stage of my life resembles the last frame in the Calvin and Hobbes cartoon strips of very fond memory. This is cheerio, not goodbye for ever. Lots to see in the meantime.

I hope one day to see the Registan of Samarkand too but that will be a much later story. 

We travel not for trade alone
By hotter winds our fiery hearts are fanned
For lust of knowing what ought not be known
We take the Golden Road to Samarkand
James Flecker

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Alabama Jack's

My wife went to Miami without me and sent me delirious notes about stopping on Card Sound road for a late lunch. So I dug up this file photo when I was there in 2010 and actually took the time to stop...a while ago! The State of Florida now says the fifty year old bridge in the background, past the toll booth  needs some attention as it is past it's maintenance  date. So far it seems to be holdiong up fine, offering great views from its 70 foot eminence.
 
The decision to make Highway One two lanes when they revamped the 18 mile stretch means traffic can't pass very much except in two designated areas and people tend to crowd each other and get impatient as they tail gate waiting for a  chance to pass. Card Sound road is a bucolic backwater, a winding drive through the mangroves and gumbo limbo and though it takes ten minutes more to arrive in Florida City from Key Largo its a much nicer ride.
Anyway, even though I pass Alabama Jack's quite often on my way to the mainland I am usually in too much of a mental rush to stop. My wife affirmed in her message that I was doing it wrong as she and  Therese stopped on a whim at the roadside attraction and enjoyed it thoroughly. For Therese, as it is for so many visitors, it was a last island stop on her way back to reality. This is the hard core reality of the 18 Mile Stretch which in this instance was better in my direction, North, than theirs:
My wife was riding north with a friend and they decided one last piece of Keys funk was in order so they had lunch on the water. Alabama Jack's LINK
 
Alabama Jack's  keeps odd hours and they close around five o'clock so don't plan to have dinner but prices if you get here soon enough  in the day are quite reasonable.
 My wife loves smoked fish and this dish got high marks:
She is rather more gregarious than am I and I got this picture on my phone with the notation that this lady has been at the restaurant every week for forty years to indulge her love of dancing.
                   
The conch fritters are what they are known for and this plate sized fritters are actually quite good. I am not a great fan of conch but these I will order happily. As did my wife and neither of us has seen fritters this big before. Often sign is seen as a substitute for flavor but in this case, not  so. If you want conch fritters before you leave the Keys these are the ones:
Take Card Sound and when you are at the Dade County line you will see the toll booth. Alabama Jack's is just north of the booth still inside the Monroe County line and usually the parking lot is full and the road is lined with motorcycles on a day trip from Miami for some Keys  flavor. Take the time to join them.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Card Sound

This post first appeared in February of 2008 and I wanted to rerun it today, while I am away on my latest Iron Butt ride, because the fishing village of Card Sound Road has finally been swept away by Dade County. This is one stark example of how an essay of mine has recorded a lot of stuff that is there no more. Alabama Jack's is still there of course and reportedly still serving the best conch fritters in the Keys, even though as you can see here, it's barely across the Monroe County line...I put this picture on the ADVRider forum thread titled "Old Structures" and somehow it generated an enthusiastic response from some dude who had actually stayed at this place in his youth during a crazy mid winter trip from Up North on a farting Bonneville that dragged him, somehow, to Key West and back in 1984. Quite delightful to hear from another geezer gumming his grits under a snowdrift somewhere, recalling his impetuous youth. I quite recommend ADVRider if you like pictures of faraway places (the occasional burst of juvenile "humor" can be an added "bonus") especially if you spend hours sitting in a room waiting for disaster to strike, as I do.Anyway this entry is obviously a product of last week's rip snorting ride through south Florida and I was moved to stop on my way home because Dade County has been making noises about abolishing the community at Card Sound and I wanted to take a few pictures before change catches me by surprise. Most people who climb in their cages and decide to drive to Key West arrive in Homestead from the mad rush that is Florida's Turnpike and find themselves funnelled onto Highway One and just keep going, which works fine, but there is a Better Way. Card Sound road starts just past the Last Chance Saloon, a dubious establishment offering the last chance for a drink in 20 miles, and aside from that attempt at humor the place looks like a pit without the allure of actually being in the Keys.Card Sound road is 25 miles long and is thus a few miles further than the direct 18 Mile Stretch, as Highway One is known between Homestead and Key Largo, a place where impatient drivers are constantly hitting each other head on. Granted this is the bucolic route, but thats not to say you can't get up a nice head of steam on the long straightaways of Card Sound Road but the speed limit as you approach the fishing shacks drops to 40 miles per, which you would do well to observe as life is lived rather literally close to the edge on this road.As the Internet, Satellites and Nextflix penetrate every corner of our modern world people keep nattering on about the good old days, and to hear them you'd think it really was Paradise Lost. If you want a taste of life lived close to the edge stop in Card Sound and take a careful walk along the roadway.

Now I grant you a liveaboard slip in the Keys might cost between $12 and $25 dollars per foot per month but a lot of people I know would have difficulty coping with this level of amenity, picturesque though it may be. Of course toss a stereotypical palm tree into the picture and everything gets a brighter facade:

Or not, as the case may be:

What's important to note though is that people do choose to treat this place as their refuge from the rest of the world and they cherish it. Most of these spots are just fish camps on a mangrove channel alongside the main road. I'd bet some few of the boats and structures could be permanent homes and in an attempt to legitimize their claims on the waterfront owners give themselves addresses:

While their neighbors tout for business:If you speak Spanish around here you will do better. Card Sound might once have been a place where English was the premdominant language but not anymore, except perhaps across the county line which marks the end of Dade County and the beginning of Monroe County. Alabama Jack's touts in English and offers what it hopes is your first al fresco Keys dining experience. Its not real waterfront dining, because the eating area is on the roadside and the waterfront is a bit...derelict? which you'd think would qualify it as being Keys-funky. Some people claim the food's okay and it offers people a place to stop so I guess they do pretty well by calling their decrepitude "funk."

Across the road lies the toll booth which welcomes you to the fabulous Florida Keys, charging you a dollar per car or motorcycle, (plus 50cents per axle on your boat trailer); its a way of training you to get fleeced in the islands Down South!

Dade County (known to newcomers as Miami-Dade because county officials were afraid people wouldn't know it was the seat of the mighty metropolitan city) has made noises about seeking out abusive structures and tearing them down. I'm not sure why this needs to be a priority and perhaps the noises will go no further now that the land grab bubble has burst. Card Sound is no museum, locked into a sterile tableau of the past, it just is, and it provides a place for modest people to hang out, chill, fish and cast off the cloak of urban struggle that fills most of their lives. It can also be a place of beauty, outside of the grubby cast-offs of human lives:

I hope Card Sound survives a bit longer. It may not be to my taste, being as how I don't care to fish, or to sit in a boat and drink, but it isn't to my taste either for people to get steamrollered out of their lives just because they are too funky, or too poor or simply too bloody minded. I like to take Card Sound Road to avoid the maniacs on the Stretch but also to give a tip of the hat to a bunch of survivors who happened to erect their fish camp on the wrong side of the County line of toleration.Had they built decades ago just 200 yards to the south they would have been in the Keys, where anything still goes, if you have the fortitude to resist the blandishments of the Almighty Dollar. These guys seem to have what it takes to resist anything, for now.