Sunday, December 21, 2008

Ocala

My wife let me sleep a few hours after I got home Saturday morning and then it was off to the races. I slept in the car as we zipped through Starbucks in Key Largo, past Alabama Jack's at card Sound, and she only shook me awake to get some Mexican lunch in Homestead before we took off again to knock off 300 miles of Turnpike across the flat lands of Central Florida. We got to Ocala's historic district just as the sun was setting and while my wife and Nancy took off for some mainland shopping, Rosie and i took off to smell some bushes and trees and poles and things.The streets of Ocala's historic district are a pleasant place to walk a dog, with lots of Live Oak trees, dangling the Spanish Moss beloved of horror movies to give that macabre look to a neighborhood:The cold front hadn't reached North Florida by last night so the temperatures, it has to be said, were quite pleasant, hovering just below seventy degrees. I had on a sweatshirt as a precaution but I might have been able to get quite aways round the block without getting knocked down by the dreaded mainland night time frost. Rosie and I spent about an hour wandering hither and yon and just like Key west we saw some houses:Some in better shape than others:And we watched the sun set over the...no not the Straits of Florida, but the plains...of somewhere...Anyway I watched it get dark while Rosie ploughed a furrow through some bushes with her nose:Rosie showed no signs of flagging, not surprising as Nancy's idea of a foundling dog is a super energetic beagle, so we kept walking. And walking. And walking and to my profound relief she never did take a dump, as Nancy had promised me she wouldn't. I've quit picking up after dogs ever since Emma died, so Rosie was exemplary in that regard (I am a responsible dog walker even 400 miles from home). And as it got dark the houses lit up:
Deck the palms...even the stubby little ones. Especially the stubby little ones....

I love Florida, even the mainland isn't all bad. How bad is it that one has to decorate the house with fake blue icicles, to celebrate the solstice? This next one was for sale and I was curious. It looked like a reasonable ranch house type with probably three bedrooms and a garage built on. It advertised a pool and lots on interior upgrades but the details like square footage were left to the imagination. The asking price is $200,000 which I have to say, nice though it may be, isn't an in-your-eye bargain. It's nice to see not everywhere is for sale at any price!

Finally Rosie seemed done in so we headed home and found we were locked out. With all my experience dispatching I figured if some of the half its KWPD catches can figure out how to break and enter, I could do no less. Luckily for me Nancy, that paragon of home safety, had left the back door open so pretty soon Rosie was fed, watered, and hunkered:

I tried to play the role of the red blooded mainland male and fiddled with the remote control. Imagine that, me in charge of a television and then I found gold.

Local access TV was showing the Marion County 40th Annual Christmas Parade. That was a cultural eye opener too, a window on this community. Aside from tractor pulls and school parades there were endless business advertisements walking down the street, a ten horse mounted patrol unit (Lieutenant Newby eat your heart out!) with the Marion County Sheriff's office. Instead of the poofy Mazda Miata Club on display in Key West, Ocala had engines of a different order of magnitude:

There were lots of nativity scenes, and I may have missed them, but of transvestites I saw not one. Nor any gay bars represented or the Metropolitan Community Church. They had more tractors though:

It was quite the professional parade though rather lacking Key West's intimacy (and variety) I might add. Nancy has lived here for almost a decade but she hasn't forgotten her roots, her mangrove roots put down in the Keys in the 1970s:She is house proud of her historic home in Ocala, a home that cost a good deal less than it would have in Key West or on her favorite island Big Pine Key:We brought her a Conch Republic flag for Hanukkah.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Bad Christmas Joke

I feel sorry for my wife as she has to hold my hand for the next week as we venture North to stay with her sister's family in the mountains of western North Carolina. I was looking at the weather forecast and things looked okay with highs in the mid 60s and of course moisture but about the time we are scheduled to show up in our car in Asheville Sunday evening a trumpet blast of cold air is set to hit the state with a night time low of 18 degrees Fahrenheit. I haven't been that cold since we went to Fargo, North Dakota to announce our winter engagement to her sister (who has rather poor taste as far as places to live are concerned). At that time I nearly suffocated taking the dog for a walk on a frozen river so deep in snow I couldn't see the dog. Temperatures then were something bizarre like twenty below zero Fahrenheit, so this is something of an improvement. I had to wear socks all night when we went to celebrate a nephew's marriage in Asheville in May, and all the wedding guests were remarking on the delightful summery weather. This is going to be very tiresome I can just tell. Especially for my long suffering wife.

Blue Hole Revisited

This is my first return visit to the Blue Hole on Big Pine Key,since I was there earlier this year, a time when there was an alligator lurking in the water. Since then the animal which was either seven feet long and had lived there nine years or was nine feet long and had lived there seven years has expired thanks to ingesting a child's toy dropped in the water. Apparently the animal, named Bacardi for some obscure reason, was unable to digest the toy and got terminal stomach ache. Thus no alligator pictures this time except for this:The last time I was here there were signs of construction and things getting torn up and now the parking area is all spiffed up with cement and bike racks and everything, even some slight shade. Shade is the definition of a good parking spot in Florida, and in winter you just seek out shade from force of habit:They've cleaned up the paths and the area is entirely accessible now:With the requisite warnings of course. Signage is everywhere:The Blue Hole is a disused quarry filled with freshwater and thus ideal alligator habitat, which makes it a shame there is no alligator anymore but people kept showing up to have a look. I met one guy at the viewing area and I remarked on the missing Bacardi (I can't get over what a silly name that is for a dinosaur but none of my acquaintances agreed when I ran it by them) and he sounded rather like a Blue Hole volunteer or something when he expounded that "they" had found 75 freshwater holes on Big Pine and No Name Keys which were likely habitats for alligators. That gave me, the back country explorer self styled, pause. Then I wondered if they might import a couple back to the Blue Hole and he sucked air through his teeth in disapproval.Apparently it is no longer the done thing to mess around the wildlife and they are simply going to hope that perhaps an alligator might migrate back to the hole on its own, like a lost hitch hiker or something:I saw this dude strolling up Key Deer Boulevard from"downtown" Big Pine Key and I wondered where he was headed as there are only a few scattered housing subdivisions out in these parts. Then I saw him taking a pause that refreshes at the Blue Hole.Perhaps he was hoping for an alligator to liven up his day. It's hard to be disappointed when you are in a pretty little spot like this:
I think they've done a nice job of cleaning the place up. clearing the trails, painting the post-and-rails and putting up all the usual verbiage, without making the experience too suburban. It's worth a visit and to get here take the left hand street from the light at Highway One in Big Pine. The left-hand street is Key Deer Boulevard,straight as an arrow:

The back roads around the Blue Hole are pretty much straight too:

So it is eighty degrees but the roads are straight. Take your pick if your motorcycle is weatherised for winter. Puerto Rico has interesting roads but you need Spanish to make it there, and road trips are perforce short as the island is a hundred miles long. The Florida Keys are an excellent compromise.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Blowing Bubbles

It seems to me that unless our political and economic leaders come to grips with this financial crisis we are never going to find a way out of it. Looking back the Federal Reserve has employed one bubble after another to void the effects of the previous "irrational exuberance" to coin a phrase. The tech bubble gave way to the housing bubble which is now giving way to a TARP bubble that is being sustained by a bond bubble. And the root causes of our problems are not being addressed. That root problem is a total lack of confidence in anyting monetary.
.
The problem is that if someone grabs the nettle and tries to figure out a proper clean up policy there is a really good chance the whole economy will implode with unforeseeable results. or possibly with all too foreseeable results- mass penury, disillusionment and "social unrest." In order to avoid pissing off the entire population all at once our dear leaders are most likely making the end result worse even than it has to be by multiplying the disastrous economic decisions.
.
Credit remains tight because the infamous Credit Default swaps and Mortgage Backed Securities still haven't been sorted out so banks are holding on to their government supplied funds in a desperate effort to have cash in hand should any of these musical chair obligations fall into their laps. Basically speaking the banks have no idea what their real liabilities are, or might be, and they have no idea what their neighbor's might be either so lending money is a fool's game. So no matter how much "liquidity"the Fed pours into the banks, all they do with the money is award themselves some bonuses and sit in the rest waiting for the meltdown.
.
The problem now is the bonds that the government is issuing at zero percent. The idea is that freaked out investors with money to stash are willing to dump their money with the US government and get no interest in return for the favor. It is a sign of the total lack of confidence in anything that moves that people with money are happy to let it sit in the bonds and earn nothing. Nothing at all. At least they figure, they'll preserve their capital. Which means forget stocks, forget loans, forget credit forget normal economic functions. We are in ZIRP Land, where the zero interest return plan offers us the prospect of nothing at all.
.
Which puts the economy in a pickle. If the way to get things moving is to let things crash and burn and no one in charge has the nerve to do that then we are going to be stuck limping along with no money, no credit no confidence and no hope. Until things get so bad someone tries something in desperation.The Japanese got stuck in that hole during the 1990s and they didn't much like it. Then they worked their way out of it by laying people off, and generally being industrial hard asses. Then just as they thought they were clear the sub prime mortgage backed crisis hit and swept them back into deflation hell. And now for lack of nerve it seems we are destined to swirl down the same plug hole. This could be a very long drawn out drag.

Nassau Lane

Walking east on Fleming past the library there seem to be dozens of little lanes heading off into the wilderness of Key West's green gardens. Nassau Lane is well marked and obvious, and trafficked too:It's that time of year when parcels make their journeys across country. As much as key West wants sometimes to be an offshore island we do enjoy having access to all those fripperies delivered to one's door. I nearly bought a house here with my wife when we were looking back in 2004.I'm exaggerating a bit. This place didn't look nearly so nice back then but he had asked to see the least expensive listing to start our search. This place came in at $175,000, a few hundred square feet with an outside balcony upstairs and a sleeping "alcove" off the main living room. It reminded my wife of her student digs in San Francisco's mission district when she was studying law, concave floors and all. We readjusted our sights a little higher. The lane is pretty though: The usual mixture of well to do restored and massive:And the unrestored funky and original, which gives Key West it's old town flavor:A bit of early spring cleaning underway perhaps or someone moving in or moving out. Homes tend to be small in Key West so when it's time to rearrange the furniture for whatever reason it generally has to go out in the road in front of God and Everybody, as there aren't massive suburban garages around here to hide one's stuff:The resident cat looking imperious as usual:And look here what do we have. Why I do believe its the beginnings of a lawn. It may not look like much but it caught my eye:I don't miss snow or frost or seasons or any of that kind of stuff. But a nice sun warmed lawn is a fine thing to be able to lay down on and look up at the clouds floating by. I do miss a nice piece of lawn from time to time. Nassau Lane at Christmas, which you would only know thanks to the garlanded house at the corner:I wonder if I would still like Key West had we wedged ourselves, mortgage free, into that tiny little shoe box on Nassau Lane?

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Band Practice

It might seem odd in one so averse to children, public events and schooling as myself, but I confess I was looking forward to attending the Winter Concert at Key West High School this year. My wife and I were invited by a colleague of hers who has a daughter in the High School Band and I was happy to show up and be part of the support group:The High School was rebuilt a few years ago on the same site as the old school on Flagler Avenue, and happily for us, the community at large, they included a modern theater facility on the campus. The auditorium is used as a performance space of all kinds, music, theater and of course the band:They call it a Winter Concert but it's not the solstice they are marking:I have to say the program was varied far beyond anything we attempted when I was in High School. The Director of Bands Ashby Goldstein had the band perform the usual holiday fare which is really Christmas carols and Tchaikovsky but we also got some Kwanzaa music which I had never heard, Imani by Sean O'Loughlin.It was abundantly clear Goldstein, himself a graduate of key West High, was having a great time with his youngsters:
I like the fact that the High School is an open campus, in a nation where students in big cities have to pass through gates and metal detectors to get to work, the students here can come and go as they please. of course Key West is such a small town truancy isn't as easy to pull off as it might at first appear as everyone has a tendency to know their neighbor's business...MY wife's buddy Cathy lives up the Keys near us and she was keeping a close eye on her daughter who was playing a saxophone buried almost out of sight in the bowels of the band. The proud parents had their camera out for the occasion and Phil was working hard to pull his teenager out of the crowd:The band's performance brings out the village atmosphere in this small town and during the intermission neighbors took the time to to catch up with each other:Whenever I attend a gathering like this in Key West I think about how far out on a limb we are down here, sticking out like a finger into the Straits of Florida. if we could get in the car and drive south to Havana we would be there easily in ninety minutes, and what a world apart it would be! Yet here we are firmly anchored, under our palm trees and the star studded tropical sky, in America. This may be rhe southernmost High School but its still the band in the land of Sousa and glittering instruments and a particular musical history:Cathy said the young musicians had been hard at work practicing for this public display of their artall semester long. She said band practice was a daily affair and treated with utmost seriousness by the musicians. Mnay years ago I was in my high school band in England where I was sent to boarding school. Looking back I feel rather as though I am seeing someone entirely different:The vest tradition lived on I was glad to see including this young timpanist clacking his wood blocks:And how can one not approve of a female tuba player? Call me prejudiced but I've always felt the piccolo, valuable though its music may be, is an instrument foir wussies...The concert highlight was a performance of the inevitable Nutcracker Suite, holiday music par excellence, but as Mr Goldstein himself pointed out, one cannot hear the Nutcracker and not think of ballet... So we were privileged to witness the debut of a new and exciting corps de ballet whose name I forget. However their performance, brought to us by means of a video recording was unforgettable. Indeed they brought the house down:They were, it turned out, hairy members of the band itself, unafraid to make fools of themselves in tutus and slippers, diving, pas de deuxing and pirouetting with no aplomb but plenty of vigor. You had to be there to listen to the whoops and hollering and gales of laughter as the boys flung themselves into their roles as swans of a bygone age trying to be graceful and failing with determination. They took their bows from the wildly appreciative house:Cathy was as flabbergasted as anyone by the tightly kept secret of the special performance, no was to know ahead of time. The evening ended a little earlier for my wife and I as we left before the community singalong. My wife is a Jew and despite her protestations she has but the vaguest idea about the Christian traditions of Christmas and I couldn't bear to hear her mangle Christmas carols. Aside from which I loathe audience participation and singalongs so she was the perfect excuse for me to get us out of there. As we left we found a youngster perched on the auditorium steps:He was unable or unwilling to articulate to strangers passing by why he was sitting out there missing a great evening's entertainment warming his hands with his breath. And I know 68 degrees isn't really cold in a lot of places, but it is in Key West, keeper of the southernmost flame of small town American traditions. Be not afraid, we here at 24 degrees North Latitude know what needs to be done this time of year even if frost and snow never put in an appearance. I'm only sorry I couldn't get to the Christmas parade down Truman Avenue, the other winter tradition that will have to wait till next year. Same time same place I hope.