Sunday, July 15, 2012

Celo Homecoming

I wrapped up my 2500 mile circuit of the mountains on my Bonneville by showing up for the Farm Olympics in Celo, North Carolina.




I was later advised we were supposed to be disguised as farmers. I was disguised as a rather dirty, tired motorcycle farmer while my brother in law in the orange shirt decided he needed a weird straw hat to complete his disguise while his wife was lightly disguised as an Indian housewife farmer.




It was a great afternoon for unwinding from an endless motorcycle ride and I was really glad they invited me and my Kermit chair to hang by and in the water with a hundred of their closest friends.




I did not swing on the rope but I enjoyed watching the youngsters frighten themselves half to death. We older folks laid into the grub of which there was lots and included roast pork and kegs of beer. I told you it was a great way to end a long ride.




The water was surprisingly warm in the river which may be called the North Toe River. I enjoyed splashing around in it, whatever it was called.




The pig was pretty much dismembered as the meal went on. I forgot to get a picture of it on the spit but this rendering was quite dramatic I thought:




Then things moved on to the Third Annual Farm Olympics, em'ceed by a man in a skirt, and very funny he was too.




The Olympics involved teams of five swimming the river, jumping obstacles and wriggling through mud. Great fun was had by all.




It was young people's sport and my in laws who have lived for 40 years in the Intentional Community of Celo in these mountains were heartened to see so many youngsters having fun. Geeta was pretty happy when she told me she had feared their community might become a retirement center. Retirees don't swim like this:




With the river crossing completed the racers slipped out of their coveralls and passed them to the next contestants...




...who struggled to get into the heavy wet cotton in preparation for becoming human wheelbarrows up the hill from the river.




The idea behind the Olympics was to bring neighbors together for the Fourth of July holiday period and many of those present had come home to their roots to enjoy a mountain holidays where the grew up.




They jumped obstacles, swapping the coveralls as they went, ending up in the mud hole under the tarp.



No mercy shown to anyone choosing to participate.





Some photographers were quite into the events. I was reflecting on the good fortune of the youngsters who grew up in Celo, educated on Quaker principles at the local school, raised as it were by a village in the sort of security and emotional safety net that such a world offers the children, even today.




And they may travel far afield to pursue careers but they come home from time to time and remember a carefree childhood in the woods.



Our hosts for the Farm Fest handing out awards:





And then, full of beer and pork and pasta and sponge cake I got lost in the hats on display. My sister-in-law Geeta starts the fashion show:



Mountain people love their hats.




Shade from the cancerous sun is all important to fair skinned people.




Beards and hats everywhere.





This one looked like a 19th century railroader's, and I wonder where he bought it.



These pork pie hats are fashionable and thus appear useless to me.





Child rearing is also fashionable among Asheville's youth, done in the shade of a broad straw hat, very useful and practical.



Really there were tons of young people everywhere, reproduction in action.





And farming also in action, not surprisingly as this was a farm not an Olympic Arena in real life.




The Mud Tunnel of Death reverted to being just a simple mud hole once again, as the youngsters settled down to music and fireworks as the sun set. I went home early to nurture my aching butt.



I quite like rural western North Carolina.





I wish I had grown up in Celo though rural central Italy made a not bad substitute.


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Saturday, July 14, 2012

A Bonneville At Deal's Gap

I wanted to take a vacation involving my motorcycle and not my dog (sob!) so it was that I was having breakfast in North Georgia after a night time of riding up the Turnpike and I-75.




It wasn't a cute diner with local appeal but I was craving pancakes and bacon so that was what I had. In a chain restaurant. Good enough.




I had no idea North Georgia was a rider's delight but the mountains rose out of the plains north of Atlanta and I could tell it was going to be good.




Even though the four lane went on for a bit I was looking forward to arriving at the day's main event, the Tail Of The Dragon.




It's more properly known as Deal's Gap, where a "gap" is a pass in the Appalachian Mountains, but thanks to it's twists and turns, and it's excessive popularity among motorcyclists, the narrow road is now likened to the twisting extremity of a mythical fire breather.




The Tail Of The Dragon is just 11 miles long, a short section in North Carolina and the rest in Tennessee, said to incorporate 318 curves. The joke is that it is the opposite of a typical Florida Highway which has eleven curves in 318 miles.




As I approached I tried not to get my hopes up. I had visited the North Carolina end last winter on a family drive but this was my first time riding the whole road and I had heard tired old locals bitch, as they do, that there is nothing special about this short chunk of roadway in a range of hills filled with spectacular rides...




It was a weekday and there were a few self conscious riders hanging out at the Deal's Gap resort which offers food gas and lodging and photo opportunities during the summer months only.




The parking lot was not even close to being packed and I stayed just long enough to take a couple of pictures and watch a KTM supermoto roar off up the hill to sly glances from the cruiser riders chatting in the lot.




In the photo below the motorcycle resort is at the junction of North Carolina 28 and Federal 129, and the wiggly section of 129 that straddles the state line is the Tail of the Dragon.




Yup, that was my actual Bonneville at the Tail of the Dragon as shown below:




I was traveling light with two saddlebags (Pelican 1420 cases) and an Emgo top case and a Kermit chair strapped to the pillion. I prefer to ride and not overload the bike. Touring with a wallowing pig is no fun, and besides overloading is hard on the engine and frame components.




Motorcyclists need to be reminded of the rules I guess and the resort makes no bones about whacking the unruly with a metaphorical two by four..."are you sure it says No Actual Parking?"




I think the best way to "do the dragon" would be to reserve a room and spend two nights here, a full day riding and resting.




And not falling off and breaking bits that end up on the infamous Tree of Shame in the parking lot of the resort.




I set off up Highway 129 not knowing what to expect. I was worried I would not be able to keep up with what I imagined would be a stream of powerful fast road racers. I needn't have worried. I got stuck behind some dipshits who had no idea how to counter steer a bike through a bend so I pulled off to take pictures and let them get ahead.




It's Hard to show the full glory of this crazy road in photos or worse in video, but believe me when I say, and I was a skeptic that the Dragon is more fun than any adult roller coaster. As for holding people up let me just say I found myself stalled by two pairs of riders, both pairs had one Triumph among them and the dude on a tricked out retro Triumph with the CAFRACR tag should have pulled over and not embarrassed himself by wobbling round the corners the way he did, like a rank amateur. I tried not to let him kill my Zen by stopping and letting him get ahead but I kept catching up to him too soon on my stock Bonneville complete with luggage and middle aged rider. Eventually he wobbled to a stop at an overlook and I had a half mile of open road to zoom and swoop down until...




The second pair included a Triumph Thunderbird wobbling along at the end of the eleven miles and once again I found myself slowed. I was quite surprised. I was even more surprised to find I had shaved the outside of both boots on the half hour ride. Definitely it was fun and I shall return for another go and if I find myself followed by a rider of greater competence and speed than I, I shall step aside into a pull out and let them by as is my habit. It's only polite.




The return to reality was hot flat and arid and I missed the swooping and sweeping of the innumerable curves of the really fantastic Tail of the Dragon. As reluctant as I am to admit it, it lived up to the hype for me. It really is that much fun no matter what the locals say.



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Friday, July 13, 2012

Chateau Morrisette Luncheon

Yesterday I showed pictures of Tuggles Gap, a restaurant on the Parkway, but my destination was somewhere else along the road.




The drive down the Parkway is always evocative, with dirt roads crossing, collapsing barns illuminating meadows...



...and an unusually good meal at the end of the scenic drive.





I like the wines at Chateau Morrisette and we decided it was warm enough to indulge in some white, the Vidal Blanc hit the spot lightning fresh and slightly tart. And sold at the table at vineyard prices which was very nice.




Feed green tomatoes a southern dish made famous by the movie and served here crisp and tart like the wine.




It was a lovely day on the deck and everyone was seated outside to take advantage of the views.



Sandra the vegetarian was well served with a mushroom sandwich,





...but I wanted to follow the green tomatoes with something equally southern and Chateau Morrisette's shrimp and grits was delicious. The grits was smooth and creamy, the shrimp tasted fresh.




Autumn did a great job of looking after us for our late lunch, encouraging us to sit and relax as the three o'clock closing deadline came and went.




Crême brûlée finished the meal, and us as we hacked at the crust in turn and sat back enjoying our great good fortune.




Lunch indoors wouldn't be bad necessarily but it was extra delightful on the terrace.




I mean, the meal was superb but we got to eat here:




Chateau Morrisette gets my vote once again.


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Thursday, July 12, 2012

A Sailing Read

This is that time of year when vacations happen, even to me, and I find myself away from Key West, traveling or better, I hope, wandering. Thus it is, because this blog is a series of apparently endless photos of what I see around me, the pictures at the moment are concerned with places other than the Florida Keys. Which makes a pleasant change for me, and I hope for you. If not, take heart, when you are at home under a cover of snow the pictures here will be of the Keys regularly once more, and a lot sooner than that as my vacation time runneth out.


In the meantime permit me to draw your attention to an essay, filled with photos, in a blog of which I am rather fond, which is unfortunately too rarely updated to qualify as "regular." I find that great a pity but this story of unbelievable boating derring-do is a nice reminder for me that soon I hope my own skiff will be back in the water running properly this year as against last year's horrible engine failures. Christopher Shepherd is a novice sailor of immense enthusiasm whose unflappable optimism gave me the creeps as I read his astonishing tale of unlikely and perfect boat deliveries. To imagine navigating a shallow water bay by flashlight on the first day of boat ownership after 12 solid hours out on the water...to park a boat up a Big Pine canal cut off by shallows in the sure and full expectation of future sailing adventures, take the breath away of an old sailing fart like myself. Stories of sailing into refrigerators (as my wife and I called the square wind waves that kicked our boat's ass for hundreds of miles in Central America) and bouncing up Hawk Channel remind me why I no longer am crazy about sailing. Too much motoring in poor conditions put me off sailing after years of determined struggle. I hope you enjoy this improbable tale as much as I did:

http://belgo.com/delivering-therapy.html

Tuggle's Gap, Virginia

The restaurant and motel like to be known as part of the Crooked Road Trail celebrating bluegrass music but their better known location is Milepost 162 of the Blue Ridge Parkway.










The restaurant is well known among motorcyclists, not least for something called Tuggles Gap Pie which consists of pastry filled with chocolate custard nuts and syrup.






The menu is basic in a casual atmosphere,








...and riders gather here in summer mostly and on weekends. I came by to eat breakfast on a day I craved oatmeal ($3.50) but it was hot so I chose a granola and yoghurt sundae for five bucks:








Supping it up with a long handled spoon made me feel like a kid again! It put me in mind of a knickerbocker glory which if you don't know what that is Wikipedia is your friend.







On a sunny day it looks pretty enough.




And the motel charges $51 for two with ten bucks extra for a pet which I like. Cheyenne might too.







Virginia funk is the theme.







But it is for sale, which seems ominous.








According to the literature the place opened in 1938 to serve the Parkway which was being built and the need for places to eat and sleep was starting to be felt.








Up the Parkway a couple of miles I came across two slightly unusual touring motorcycles.








I am not going out on a limb and figure put if this actually is a 69S but it looked to be in excellent condition and ready to tour.








The other machine was equally interesting to me, a Yamaha 250 which reminded me of the SR500 I once used to own.







They were I suppose an odd couple but in terms of performance I figure they must be reasonably similar.








What a great way to ride the Parkway.




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