Saturday, March 9, 2013

100 Montaditos

Key West needs another chain restaurant! Well, you wouldn't think so but I've never heard of anywhere quite like one hundred monta-deetos, a Spanish themed sandwich shop, that has landed in Key West on Fitzpatrick street across from Kino Sandals.

As locations go it's aimed at the tourist trade certainly but it makes for an interesting possibility for locals too, looking for a cheap and filling meal unlike any other in town. The chain is actually based in Spain and was founded in Andalusia in 2001 according to their website, in Spanish. They have 230 restaurants in Spain and sixteen elsewhere including Andorra, Portugal, Mexico, Colombia and... two in Miami and now one in Key West. So this is a chain but not like you'd imagine most chains to be in the United States and if you don't live in South Florida you won't see this place anywhere else in this country. So far.

It's a pleasant space inside the restaurant both cheerfully bright yet welcoming. I ordered the food at the counter including a $3:50 mug of some Spanish beer of which I had never previously heard, Mahou, a light honeyed lager with a big frothy head on the mug.

The sandwiches are simple European style small servings on proprietary breads with none of the usual American mustard-mayo-lettuce folderol. The ham shown below came with a delicious pesto dressing but otherwise they are very plain with first rate ingredients. And there really are a hundred varieties, including seafood and vegetarian, carefully labelled on the menu. You order by number and presto, sandwiches and chips with a side of fries appear as if by magic.

Ten dollars had me stuffed and the breads really are crispy and delicious. I liked the elderly Franco-era black and white photographs crowding the walls. They made Spain look like a 19th century memory buried in the recesses of my mind. I remember riding my motorcycle across Spain just after Franco died and I recall an air of suppressed enthusiasm as the country waited to see what the new King would do with a country grown weary of Fascist dictatorship. The photos seemed as far away as that motorcycle trip in my youth.

I liked this place a great deal and I can imagine a visit here with friends would open wide the possibility of sharing flavors and buying a much wider variety of the relatively small sandwiches to pass around for a bite.

Bloomberg calls 100 Montaditos the "Spanish Starbucks" as executives plan to open 500 franchises by 2015 all around the Americas. Critics naturally think they are overestimating the speed of expansion.

Meanwhile Key West has its own private sandwich shop on Fitzpatrick Street. Different and interesting and nicely done. Well worth a visit.

 

Friday, March 8, 2013

Olive Oil, Horsemeat And Clear Skies

 

It is said drought will raise the price of olive oil by degrees of magnitude in the coming months. It seems a prolonged dry spell across southern Europe has shriveled the supply of fruit and wholesale prices have gone up 60 percent according to an astonished press. My sister in Italy grows olives among other things and her family operates an olive press so perhaps the news isn't all bad. However I find it odd to read the news after listening for decades to stories about how the European Union had to pay farmers from southern Europe for crops that were flooding food markets across the planet. Butter mountains, wine lakes and tons of unneeded olive oil. Not so any more, thanks to the stormy weather sweeping the planet.

How odd it is that we have been told for years that cooking and flavoring with olive oil is good for our cholesterol clogged arteries and now, as we have obediently absorbed that incessant message the price of the life saver is set to sky rocket. Well, bollocks.

Not to worry if you had paid attention to maverick investors around the planet you'd have been sinking your spare cash into agriculture futures because while our leaders dicker about and ignore climate change our business overlords smiled to themselves, ignored the chatter and wisely invested in dirt to take advantage of said changes which the working classes are advised are not actually happening. No one I have spoken to remembers a warmer winter in the Keys, which doesn't mean anything, except that it has been delightfully sunny for most of the winter. And another massive snow storm sweeps the northern reaches of the continent.

I was astonished to learn that IKEA, the cheap furniture chain bakes its cakes in China and ships them to twenty three countries around the world. It seems bizarre to me that hiring local bakers and stocking shops with the fruits of the work of local hands is eschewed in favor of slave labor in China to produce cakes but that is the world made by machine. Now it seems the Chinese slaves have failed to wash their hands or their machinery or something because there is evidence of shit in the Chinese IKEA cakes. Quality control used to mean things were made of decent products and tasted good as a result. Quality these days means uniformity across the chain. An almond cake in Fort Lauderdale tastes the same as one in Stockholm. And we hope has the same proportion of fecal coliform. What a world.

I am one of the lucky ones with a great job and good health and a life below the snow belt (I feel lucky about that anyway!) and as I walk under this lovely blue winter sky I wonder about the world around me. They say seas are rising putting my beloved Keys at risk, they say cheap oil is running out and everything in this world is made with petroleum, even our very food is fertilized with it astonishingly enough. Horsemeat is sold as beef so corporations can increase profits in a world made by machine.

You wonder why meat eaters get up in arms about horsemeat and it's all in the mind of the eaters. Cow, sheep, pig or horse; what's the difference? The difference is that we didn't sign on to eat horses, animals viewed as pets by some. Of course race horses are forgotten after they finish running and we ignore their fate, shipped to Canada, killed and ground up for hamburgers for Eurosavages. Except our neighbors across the Pond were fed horse on the quiet, as a scam, so righteous anger wells up. Horsemeat? Horrors! Solent green is people! Remember that line?

To be opposed to Walmart is mark one as an elitist depriving the workers of cheap goods that they demand. It's an interesting way to reverse the equation if you ask me. I wonder why the argument doesn't go that we should pay people enough to buy local goods from local stores which in turn employ local people. Why is it better to buy pressed wood furniture from IKEA and eat shit flavored almond cake from China on poverty wages instead of being able to feed one's family from food grown locally and manufactured locally.

We are told by critics of the left that we must be self reliant and look after ourselves which is, like Communism a nice idea. The unfortunate thing with the theory, like Communism, is that it doesn't seem to work in practice. Wages have been shrinking for decades, debt has been used as the building block of social control and the law has been bent to serve the powerful in a way that hasn't been since the 19th century robber barons and the early 20th century industrialists made the world in their image.

So how precisely does a working stiff plan self reliance when wages stagnate, pensions are abolished, health insurance costs are out of sight, while mortgages and student loans are doled out to "enable" borrowers to meet costs that rise implacably to suck up whatever debt the borrowers are allowed to borrow. The main two reasons our grandparents lived on one salary while modern families need debt to supplement two salaries are the costs or housing and the costs of medical care. Cui bono? Why, corporate America benefits from the debt Americans have run up. Funny that. We loan you money for a thirty year mortgage and house prices rise to increase the size of the mortgage you need to borrow! Freedom is debt! It's the American dream...

I spoke to my neighbor yesterday afternoon, a retired county worker whose wife is tiring of her second job and wants to retire from that too. He says they will probably have to retreat to southwest Florida, Port Charlotte perhaps, as retirement in the Keys is too costly. He talked about the rising cost of food, of gas, a man who has done his life's work as one should, who needs to shrink his life on three pensions to seek peace of mind. And he has social security and Medicare as well. Does anyone think the future of the next generation will end in peace of mind? With 93% of the nation's income going to one percent of the population why should a bleak future surprise anyone who wasn't born into the wealthy classes.

They tell us we can't afford anything anymore in this country, not for the people who live and work here. We fight wars for oil companies, we subsidize foreign corporations with tax breaks, we hire mercenaries to support our armies and run our jails. They tell us social welfare programs are unaffordble as though it's our fault that a federal deficit exists. Our president wants as little to do with job creation as do our corporate leaders but instead he wants to surveil us with drones and kill us with them if "necessary." So now that it's not Pakistanis and Afghans he proposes to drone to death, we suddenly see drones as an appalling threat to our humanity. They say horsemeat hasn't yet invaded our shores which is nice, the icing on the IKEA cake as it were. Wages are dropping so fast even Walmart can't squeeze a profit out of its China made crap any more.

I'm glad I get to see the sunshine each morning and the glitter of palms waving in the breeze, and the sound of a happy dog snoring at the end of a day's walk. So far we can still afford the olive oil for the salad and petroleum for internal combustion. As long as they don't start selling soylent green at Winn Dixie I think I can keep my shit together, and off my hot buttered crumpets.

Have a great weekend. I propose to after a grueling week of Spring Break dispatching.

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Sump Magazine

I came across a website I rather liked relating to the esoteric subject of elderly British motorcycles. It reeks of old engines and oil and stubborn old cranks doing what they love. Thus the opening page of http://www.sumpmagazine.com/ has this rather eccentric opening message. I find it endearing when compared to the aggravating appeals from slicker websites. I appreciate the ability not to take oneself  too seriously.


Welcome
 We could spend a lot of time telling you what we are, and what we're not, and where we're going, and where we've been. Etc. But what would be the point? You'd only go and press one or more of the buttons (above or below) and you'd find out anyway—and without all the propaganda.

So we'll pretty much leave you to it. But before we go, we've got to put a few keywords on this page to keep Google happy (they whinged at us recently because all we had was a big Sump logo device on a black background, and they felt it was a bit thin). We told them that—hey!—that was how we liked it.

Big and bold. But did they listen? They did not. So we've now got to mention words like Triumph, Norton, BSA, Royal Enfield, Vincent, Ariel, Panther, Douglas, Brough, Greeves, AJS, Matchless, Villiers, Francis Barnett, Cotton, Norman, Scott, Rudge, Velocette, Sunbeam, James, Excelsior, Villiers, and so on, and so forth.

We've also got to mention things like classic bikes, and motorcycling, and British, and motorcycle news and shows and events and autojumbles and stuff like that. It's all pretty tiresome, but in this life, you're always dancing to someone's tune. Are we right?

Anyway, we've done it now and Google has given us the thumbs up, so we're signing off. We've got a lot to do, and bikes to ride, and places to go, and beer to drink and women to ... well, you know how it goes. Hope you like what we have and get something from it.
If not, you'll just have to look elsewhere. —Sump

A Golden Morning

I didn't have to filter the pictures to get this incredible golden glow. I chose to take Cheyenne for a walk on an old Flagler footbridge near my home and the sun obliged by rising at the same time and making me feel like a million dollars.

The hundred year old railroad bridges are quite solid but these days they are reserved for bicycles and pedestrians and many of them have been refurbished to form part of the cycling heritage trail the length of the islands. Anglers use them and abandon bait fish to bake in the sun. Cheynne thanks them.

Commuters use the "new" main road built in 1982 which means I get to watch them rush by to daytime jobs while I, who just finished my overnight shift have the day to myself.

Some people like their mountains and I agree they have their place, but this scenery isn't too bad either. I know that because this time of year visitors tend to slow down more than usual as they cross the open water bridges. I can only imagine they are gawping at the water.

People baffle me. This old dude stepped onto the bridge and started stepping sideways, staring down at his feet as he placed them sideways, one next to the other, crabbing his way along the bridge, carefully following the white line. He passed me without a word, his skin parchment brown with a big peaked baseball cap and clear plastic rims on his round glasses, he reminded me of Sir Francis Chichester, the yachtsman of a bygone era. He got to the end of the bridge and started mincing back towards us one sideways step at a time. It's true what they say about the lack of dignity in old age and the struggle not to yield to it. I take my exercise indoors out of public view.

It looks like sunset but it was sunrise. All missed by the man walking sideways.

Perhaps tomorrow he will look up from his feet.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Key West Seascapes

It is a Key West icon for sure but I don't photograph it very often simply because it is there, every day and it's usually crowded with people who line up to be photographed at this very spot!
In the early hours of the morning Cheyenne and I were alone with our thoughts. She was wondering what there was to eat; I was wondering how it is none of the visitors seems to note the anomaly of land, clearly visible, that is to the south of the "Southernmost" Point. However it is a listening post to monitor the Communists on the Godless Isle and is thus closed to the likes of you and me. If you and I want to listen to Cuba we can tune in Radio Rebelde at 620AM or commercial-free classical music at 590AM Radio Musical Nacional.
It was a dramatic morning looking out across the Straits of Florida toward Cuba over the horizon.
There is a small pier jutting out from the end of Duval Street.
It didn't look like a sunny day was on offer but things got brighter later. The weather rarely disappoints in Key West. Unless you are looking for snow.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Mel Fisher

The story of piracy in Key West is as far as I can figure a mixture of bullshit and wishful thinking, inasmuch as the Florida Keys never really held an allure for the historical figures now known to us as pirates. The Keys are not boating friendly when you consider there were no communities here, therefore no supplies, no brothels, and no pubs and no skilled artisans to repair metal or canvas or rope. There was no water source and no large trees to provide timber and planks to refurbish sailing ships as used by buccaneers. The Keys also fail the geography test, because if Spanish cargo ships were sailing from Portobello to Havana and from Havana to Cadiz the route sailing ships followed would have put most of the Keys in the wrong place to intercept the convoys. That's why pirates were based in Old Providence Island (modern Providencia) off Nicaragua firsthand when they were smoked out of there they regrouped on New Providence Island, (hence the name) in the Bahamas.
For the real story on treasure ships and derring-do check out the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum at Clinton Square. This place houses a fabulous fortune that's still being dragged off the bottom of the sea between Key West and Fort Jefferson from a treasure ship that sank in a hurricane in 1622. The leader of the 16 year search for the galleon called Our Lady of Atocha (Nuestra Señora de Atocha) Is depicted below in te bright striped shirt, grinning madly as well he might. Mel Fisher and hIs crew had found two hundred million dollars worth of gold and silver, jewels and artifacts.
The ship was apparently named for a church in Madrid by the same name which in turn was named for an icon lost during the wars with the Moors and found in nearby tall grass called Tocha. As a result there are now several towns called Atocha in the new world. The treasure seekers first came across a pile of silver ingots strewn across the seabed, recreated in this display:
I have always enjoyed the history and the true stories that are on display at Mel Fisher, not only because they tell us what life might have been like on a transatlantic crossing 400 years ago but also the artifacts give us an idea of what life was like in general. Some of the stuff they has on display is quite moving, far more moving to me than a pile of silver or gold ingots.

There are household items, cutlery, buttons and all the impedimenta of daily life, reminders that people died that day in September when a hurricane caught the ships close to the reefs of the Florida Keys.
The lure of the Mel Fisher museum is the gold, let's be honest and it is a popular spot. They used to have a gold ingot in a plastic box into which you could put your hand and hold the gold. That little jig ended when two men grabbed the gold, broke the transparent perspex box and legged it before anyone noticed or could intervene. The whole heist was caught on film but the subjects were never identified or caught. The gold is no longer on display for people to hold and dream. Boo hiss.
I hadn't visited the museum in a couple of years but it had been on my list of things to do and places to see once again. I am sorry now I went when's did, because it was crowded. Shuffling past the exhibits felt like nothing quite so much as being herded in a crowd in the subway. People were milling around and reading out the captions to ach other. Call it gold fever but they seem to get some sort of auto-erotic buzz from the wealth on display. Unfortunately for me I find the history far more compelling and I like tI pause and of template and think about what it must have been like to be word that astonishing ship.
That's hard to do when you are milling around like a spectator at a public execution. The finer points of the loss of life and the daily struggle of those lives tends to get lost in a crowd. Next time I'm going to visit in the height of summer and spend hours in the air conditioning contemplating my mortality. And the impervious nature of gold. Check out this Inca dish decorated with condors and symbols of power, symbols that crumbled in the face of gunpowder and smallpox. Check out Jared Diamond's book Guns Germs and Steel.
The exhibits are worth the time I think. Upstairs there is a whole operation dedicated to preserving treasure that is still being brought out of the ocean. I have taken a tour up there and it's impressive stuff.
Of course there is a gift shop as well and if you have a quarter million bucks they will sell you a gold ingot. If you aren't a one percenter they have cheaper stuff, replicas, coins and books. And some rings that make nice wedding bands too for instance. It's actually worth a look too even just to see what came up out of that extraordinary ship.
It looks like it might be rather harder to get away with these days so don't go with the faint hope that gold will fall in your lap. Oh, and there's no talk at the museum of pirates either, thank God, though there was a Harry Potter exhibit upstairs which I skipped. The whole place is wide open, come as you please and see what you like. Your own private treasure trove. Just try and go on a day when the crowds are away doing something else.