Sunday, March 16, 2014

No Name Pub

Shannon asked me Saturday night where did I suggest she might want to go with her parents when they visit next week. I thought about it and because she wanted to take them on a road trip, which is to say drive them well outside the city limits of Key West, I started by suggesting Sparky's Landing in Key Colony Beach, well out of range for people who think 50 miles is beyond the pale...No Name Pub? Been there... Square Grouper? Done that...Kiki's Sandbar? Huh? Well I said it's new so its clean, as her mother is germ-phobic, but it has a nice Keys atmosphere and pleasant water views...Whatever she decides I wish her luck.  I hate giving advice so I wish her well on her trip. 

As it happened we had a lunch date Sunday at No Name Pub where we haven't been for a while, but it isn't far  from our house so it was a short drive with the roof open on the wife's Fiat 500 convertible. This is the first convertible I really like so the drive at 10 minutes was rather too short and as I had to work that evening I couldn't order Yuengling draft to wile away the time we had in hand waiting for our key West friends who got hammered by the gruesome winter traffic on Highway One. I drank a lot of iced tea instead.
I guess it really has been a while since we visited No Name Pub as I had never previously seen the outdoor seating, and very nice it was too. We got the last table open when we walked in; the place was packed as usual. Stacey and Steve made it in good order, complaining as my wife and I frequently do that traffic on the Overseas Highway all too often just crawls along. 
 It was a perfect day for an outdoor lunch, sunny bright but not too hot and with plenty of shade both human made and from the many trees. I always wondered why eating here was not allowed. That era has ended, I guess.
Three of us got fish and chips which  included the dollar fries, round slices of potato instead of the usual French fried contraptions while Stacey got a calzone that appealed to her native New York nature. A lifetime spent in Syracuse was rewarded by a giant football of pastry filled with molten cheese. 
This sort of life is why people move to the Keys and Steve has retired after a life of teaching law at the university in Syracuse, a life he enjoyed but whose famously harsh winters tired him. However they are neither of them willing or able to leave New York behind completely. This summer they will return back north leaving those of us that live here to enjoy the tranquility of low season.
We dawdled over lunch for a couple of hours I think and eventually we dragged ourselves away from the wreckage, fifteen dollars apiece with drinks and tax etc...and made our way back through the inner sanctum of the venerable pub. In summer when its not packed on hot humid weekdays the dark cool interior will be welcome but Sunday was not the day to be packed indoors like a sardine. 
 A pleasant change for us to come here, even as we read of continuous never ending snow and storms Up North.
 No Name Pub is not high class eating or innovative food or spectacular beer lists. Its just a nice place to hang out and enjoy the weather and the relative peace of distant Big Pine Key. Its really not that hard to find. 

St Patricks Day, Key West

I work this entire weekend, every night, Saturday Sunday and Monday and that's okay. However my heart did sink when I went downtown with my wife and we sat at the Courthouse Deli a con leché each and watched the world go by. We were pretty alert so we soon figured something was up with all the greenery.
The plan had been to sit in comfort in the remains of the cold front breeze and listen to the sound check from the Green Parrot but no such luck. The bar was as silent as a bar could be when hosting a St Patrick's Day crowd.
I have to say that it seems to me that the crowds at these events seem to be getting older and older and far from the sun dappled youth of just a few years ago we seem to be getting sun dappled middle aged crowds at these types of events. I am not armed with statistics, just casual observation but it makes sense to me that young people, caught in this endless non-recession, can't afford to spend time and money in Key West as they could in the past.
That is not to say Spring Break isn't happening, that essay is for tomorrow, but things like St Patricks Day, observed on Saturday the 15th(!) people seemed older. Just like Fantasy Fest...This young dude seemed intent on mowing down his elders and intoxicated betters with his scooter:
The city commission has been debating tightening up Fantasy Fest rules for this October, which is already in the planning stages. Some locals, led by former city commissioner and arch-Conch Harry Bethel want to see rules on nudity swept away. Body painting seems inadequate to them even though the crotch and backside crack have to be covered at all times, one hopes good taste makes that obvious but not so.
And one can sympathize with people whose home town gets turned into a display of public bad taste each Fall for a week, but their clamor for toning it down is falling on the very deaf ears of the people who run the bars and make the money. City commissioner Mark Rossi who owns the Rick's /Durty Harry's/ Red Garter complex on one entire block of Duval Street was loud in his condemnation of the rules proposed by the owner of Fausto's Jimmy Weekly. It is weird to me that a city commissioner with an interest in these matters is not automatically recused but to the contrary Rossi told the newspaper he ran specifically to defend his interests!
So far opaque covering for woemn's nipples is still required and body paint at least must be employed to cover everything as usual. For my part I take no joy in most of Fantasy Fest. It is a part of this town's annual series of summer (low season as was) events and there it is. If it went away I would not cry too hard or too long, and these days even what used to be known as the local's parade has become, by my rather tired standards, a bit too popular and thus crowded.
The city's noise ordinance was also up for change recently and the city commission grappled with that for a night. That debate brought to the fore some rather convoluted thinking and unexpected public alliances. Supporters of requiring quieter sound levels downtown found themselves attacked not as saviors of public peace and quiet but as job wreckers. Reduce permitted sound levels the argument went and the town will become a desert, bars will close early each night and people will be out of work.
Never mind that long time residents pointed out they have lived near Duval Street longer than there has been a tradition of noisy bars...The noise ordinance didn't get changed either. It would drive me mad to listen to that cacophony every night I know that.
Things aren't easy to change around here. A few years ago there were proposals to change residential parking rules in Old Town and that debate went back and forth for a few weeks. In the end nothing changed. A few too many permits issued to allow people to park in residential spots were rescinded and that was that. Which is why my car has Monroe county stamped on the license plate. It increases my opportunities to park when I take my car downtown. Open container laws are flexible too, though walking around with alcohol is illegal it takes discretion to be enforcing codes sometimes. As long as people are cool I am okay. I really dislike everyone's need to be annoyed with their neighbors all the time. I try to mind my own business.
I observe scooter rentals riding around not too competently and with no hope of escaping road rash when they fall, but they are old enough to run their own lives:
We sat for a long while nursing our Cuban coffees and watching people from our spot on the deli bench. It was a lovely day yesterday, fresh, not too hot and with a light cool breeze. No air conditioning needed. We had been to see the movie Omar set in Palestine. It was an Oscar contender me in my opinion should have beaten The Great Beauty from Italy which was a self indulgent piece of fluff by comparison. And. I enjoyed the Italian movie greatly but Omar was brilliantly written, moving and tremendously powerful as a love story, a thriller and a commentary on the Israeli mess in Palestine. If you see one movie check out Omar at the cinema. It's that good.
I always wanted a beach buggy like this when I was a kid. I'm not sure what I was thinking but I saw this one and I recalled that long lost feeling of desire for one.

St Patrick's Day was very pleasant from across the street at the Green Parrot. A surprisingly calm oasis in which to think and reminisce and watch people stumble.

Saturday, March 15, 2014

Oh Dark Thirty In Pictures

I was off but I woke up early that night so Cheyenne and I went into town to be alone together. Every traffic light I met was red, and stayed red with no cross traffic. As I approached Simonton Beach to park the Fusion I was ready to run a light just to prove a point. I am so middle class I wouldn't dare.
We wandered around and I took a few pictures of the emptiness of Key West before six in the morning.
Flagler Station on Caroline Street:
Cuban Joe's Marine Store looking with it's mast like a ship in the night.
Greene Street.
Cheyenne tugging my leash behind her.
It was as peaceful as I've seen Key West, and then the sun came up.
 

Friday, March 14, 2014

Fix It Again Tony

 
I made the mistake of stopping to talk to a dude yesterday as Cheyenne and I strolled the suburbs, she sniffing and me enjoying the temperate summer day cooled by a post-cold-front breeze. I have walked past that particular Big Pine home a lot and admired the bizarre collection of Fiats parked at random in the gravel space in front of the house. This time as I walked by an erect rather distinguished man with white hair, big tortoiseshell glasses and a green t shirt appeared from behind a modern bright red Fiat 500 and I stopped. "I have admired your wild collection of Fiats,"  I said rather incautiously.
It happens I am not very good at being social and the company of my patient dog is usually enough for me, especially when combined with the occasional encounter with a friend and altogether too much work and overtime during Spring Break. Twelve hours sitting in a  room  with two other overworked 911 dispatchers can tax the limits of my ability to be anything but morose and withdrawn. One would like to imagine that a brief encounter, a chat about a funky brand of car might help recharge the internal battery of a recluse and reaffirm the value of human interaction...The problem though was quite a different one. I am not a car enthusiast, though I like motorcycles and enjoy riding them and reading about them. They are my passion and I do not discuss them with anyone much in the real world though I do struggle on a few forums on the Internet where I find opinions abound and are frequently passed off as fact. Cars? Useful but not exactly exciting. My interest in Fiats stemmed more from the fact that there is a dude living in Big Pine who collects them. How weird is that? Big Pine Key is the Lower Keys refuge for people who want to enjoy their guns and their paranoia in peace not to be sitting around collecting cars that in no way resemble giant pick up trucks...That was what interested me, not a thirty minute disquisition on double barreled carbs, twin headlights and 1972  gray imports of Fiat 850s. But, by gum, that's what I got. My mother drove a car like this one below, a Fiat 850 coupe of which my interlocutor had had one parked in front of his house.
 
 


That one was off being  restored he said and then he proceeded to uncover a black convertible and he lifted the hood and I got to see a new collection of pipes and wires powering his 124 Convertible. That was a car I remembered from my childhood. My father bought my twin sisters the car and they drove it all over Europe, to England and Italy, Germany and Austria and across France and Switzerland. It was an unhappy time for them as they tried to convince my mother their lives should be lived in Italy but they kept pissing her off in her Italian castle and she'd send them back to her ex-husband in England. I took quite a few trips in the rumble seat of my much older sisters' fancy car. You can imagine the attention twin good looking twenty one year olds in a convertible got in the 1960s. I was eleven and wondered about the fuss we got at every border post. 
 
Where was I? Oh yes, it seems not many 850s were imported to the US and the Fiat crazy guy on Big Pine got his, the one with the dual headlights direct from Italy with a speedometer in kilometers and he only paid forty five hundred bucks for it. Which made me wince as my 1977 Vespa is going to cost more than  that by the time all's said and done, maybe six grand. At least his fancy 850 still has to be restored though he says it may be worth seventy grand by that time. My Vespa may be worth three grand by the time I'm done, but my plan is to ride the snot out of the thing as usual  and destroy all resale value. I tried to ask how he got into Fiats and why but all I heard was he felt that these funky cars kept him alive through his recent cardiac problems. "More likely caused them," I said, trying to crack a funny in the middle of a lot of technical mumbo jumbo. Oh no he said, sincerity larding his voice lest his cars hear him deprecating them, they saved  my life he said, missing my little joke entirely. Sigh.
 

 
I never really thought about it too much until my mind started to wander from all the minutiae of owning collectible Fiats but I've actually been around quite a few of them. I bought my own when I was in my early twenties. I remember driving to the dealer in Perugia at the urging of a friend and there it was just like the car pictured above offered for 9 million lire I seem to recall, perhaps three thousand dollars back then? I wrote a check and took home ( a few  days later, Italian bureaucracy is generally quite slow but I think the dealer wanted to unload the weird car while he could so I got my tags in a hurry) my first  own car. People in the village thought I was joking when I showed up with this extraordinary space ship of a car, accustomed as they were to seeing me riding my motorcycle in all weathers. A Fiat they said incredulously, looking at their own utility Fiats by comparison. A convertible? With a hard roof? And the seats don't lean back? They looked appalled at the thought of spending nine million lire for a car you could not get laid in. That was okay; I had fifty empty rooms at my disposal in the castle my late mother had left to me. Space was not cramped for me in my lonely youth.
                                                                                    
None of this was of interest to the Fiat dude. We had not exchanged names in the flood of technical details that I had been drowning in. Then I asked about the Internet, thinking that restoration is so much easier with the Web. I know it encouraged me to get my 1977 Vespa and helped me find what appears to be a top flight restorer in distant Pennsylvania. Fiat Dude looked appalled. Oh no, he recoiled, I don't have a computer. Never had in the twenty five years I've lived here. I call So-and-So in California for my parts. Oh I said, so he has the computer! I needn't have said anything because now Fiat Dude was in full flow about how the Internet interferes with human relations and how he believed in true human interactions and making the world a better place etc...and when he started to refer to his comparative religion class at the university I started to send signals to Cheyenne that this conversation needed to end. Now, please. Obediently my old Labrador picked up on my invisible distress signals and got up and started lumbering off.  I said I could never have had the courage to buy my Vespa without the Internet for help. Vespa car he asked hopefully? Oh God no I said thinking of the weird little Vespa 400 that makes an old Fiat 500 look large...

 
My mother would never let me have a motorcycle when I was growing up in Oklahoma Fiat Dude said. So much so she encouraged him to get a car, unlike my mother who encouraged me to get a motorcycle by buying me my first Vespa when I was 12. But what did he care, the lonely humanitarian too busy talking to listen? He got in his stick shift Fiat 500 Abarth and drove off toward Highway One as Cheyenne led me gently away my ears ringing. I had even tried to find common ground by pointing out how much I like my wife's convertible, seen below uncharacteristically not converted (though she can open the roof all the way while under way...), but Fiat Dude poured scorn on the automatic gearbox, because clearly ours is inferior to his manual shift. I wonder how high he scored in comparative religion class?
 
Maybe I'm just doing it wrong, but no matter how I slice it, I like Cheyenne's company best and she I am flattered to think likes mine. Besides all that imagine the total lack of curiosity that leaves you thinking that having access to the world around you, albeit only electronically, isn't something worth doing. Screw Facebook if you like , but all the world's literature, newspapers, films and music are on line available to you in Bumfuck Big Pine if you want it. I think this ability to explore the world from this or any other isolated spot is one of the great benefits of modern times. The Internet is a pain in the ass, and creates dependence and screws up youthful minds and all that but I love having the world at my fingertips. I can watch episodes of  Dad's Army or Don Matteo any time I want on U Tube and if I want to be intellectual  I can download all the world's books to my phone and I can send pictures to my nephews half a world away any time I want. Fantastic - and this dolt immersed in his rusty machinery thinks its all a waste of time. Dull is as dull does.
 
I suppose it's my Asperger's but I just don't get what the point of conversation is when you have a dog and a book and a warm sunny day. And I didn't have to take a class to learn that.
 
 
 

Thursday, March 13, 2014

There Is No Alternative

 
It takes the wit and wisdom of the incomparable Santa Cruz cartoonist Tim Eagan to point out what no one else will: as much as the Affordable Health Care Act sucks, it's not like opponents have developed a better idea. Me? I'm for Medicare for all,  funded by deductions like Social Security. If you want your own gold plated policy buy it for yourself. But as I am fond of saying, I've never met anyone who dumped Medicare or the VA in favor of buying a private policy from the vampire squids of the private health insurance scam market.
 
From Huffington Post:
 
 
Dr. Danielle Martin, vice president at the Women's College Hospital in Toronto, totally schooled Sen. Richard Burr (R-N.C.) on health care Tuesday.
Martin was in Washington D.C. to answer questions from a U.S. Senate subcommittee led by Sen. Bernie Sanders (I-Vt.) on different health care systems around the world. When Burr asked Martin "on average how many Canadian patients on a waiting list die each year," she answered with a fact about the American healthcare system.
"Do you know?" Burr asked.
“I don’t, sir, but I know that there are 45,000 in America who die waiting because they don’t have insurance at all," Martin said.
But that wasn't the only question Martin schooled Burr on. There was also this exchange:
Burr: What do you say to an elected official who goes to Florida and not the Canadian system to have a heart valve replacement?Martin: It’s actually interesting, because in fact the people who are the pioneers of that particular surgery, which Premier Williams had, and have the best health outcomes in the world for that surgery, are in Toronto, at the Peter Munk Cardiac Center, just down the street from where I work.
So what I say is that sometimes people have a perception, and I believe that actually this is fueled in part by media discourse, that going to where you pay more for something, that that necessarily makes it better, but it’s not actually borne out by the evidence on outcomes from that cardiac surgery or any other.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/03/13/danielle-martin-richard-burr_n_4958164.html

http://www.amsa.org/AMSA/Libraries/Academy_Docs/WaitingTimes_primer.sflb.ashx


Wandering Key West

A cat napping next to a dog's water bowl outside a Key West business is putting itself directly in the line of fire. Check out how composed the cat is. Not a car in the world, especially considering 107 pounds of furry Labrador love was bearing down on her.

We were in the meadows and a pick up truck pulled up. Two strapping men, one younger one not so much, started working a big cardboard box off the truck and into the garden gate. It looked like an appliance delivery and it made me think back to when I used to work at Fast Buck Freddie's shipping and receiving. The younger kids loved to get out of the warehouse for a delivery. For me it was always a pain as Key West homes more closely resemble jigsaw puzzles than houses and maneuvering furniture through Hobbitland was a pain in the ass even when I was 20 years younger. I did not envy these two even though it looked reasonably simple as these things go. My colleague told of getting a new full sized refrigerator in her apartment last week. The movers had to take the door off the hinges to work it into her tiny nest. They earned their tips.
Speaking of Fast Buck Freddie's I met a former coworker on the street as Cheyenne and I strolled. Ann Lorraine is a local artist who used to dress the windows of the famous department store on Duval, now sadly closed. An artistic soul behind the windows | KeysNews.com. I used to hang out and chat with her and she had stories to tell about her youthful travels. She was married for a while to a diplomat and lived in faraway places. She told me of wandering the streets of Vientiane, the capital of Laos with her sketchbook drawing what she saw. She made quite the impression on me. "I don't understand people who get bored in retirement," she said, expressing the wish she could get a good old medieval patron to fund her and let her paint in peace. Nowadays they all worry about ROI and their image so it's the splashy charities that give tax credits that get the attention. Medieval Florence and Rome seem a long way away.
 
This next picture is the former waste-to-energy plant that the city declined to refurbish with modern scrubbers owing yo the complaints of wealthy condo owners in the Stock Island neighborhood. Now the trash gets trucked 200 miles to Pompano Beach and planted in the ground. And this space, with Mount Trashmore in the background will become something else along College Road.

Citgo here at Truman and White is a popular gas stop. The Chevron across the street has a small convenience store as well and they also have a mechanic during the day. A friend of mine has worked there since I can remember, but Citgo has one thing that trounces all other advantages: Dion's Fried Chicken, as I mentioned previously

 

One thing that I find amusing about Citgo is how they always stress their local roots. I don't know if anyone remembers anymore, short attention spans being what they are, but there was a scandal in 2006 when a convenience chain decided to drop Citgo owing to then president Chavez's anti-US government comments. So we see these signs of local fervor seven years later...

This I labeled "DIY" on my Facebook page. $99 for three months inside the gym or buy the bicycle for $200 and take it home. I like to sweat in private so its no contest where I would spend my money if I were in the market.

Cheyenne laboring on a hot February day. Winter has been too short for her.

But relief is always at hand after a cold front, be it ever so mild.

I have been enjoying the eighty degree days with cool breezes. They make me think of pleasant summer days in more temperate climes.