Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Vignettes XXXVIII

Cheyenne's desire to be out and about, to sniff everything she can, to live the life she was born to and denied the first eight years of her life, that Cheyenne walks until she drops. Summer is the time of year when one can only walk so far in one direction in an effort to make sure we are close enough to the car by the time she reaches her limit on 95 degree afternoons.Cheyenne is not particular friendly toward other dogs. She walks past dogs trapped in their yards, they bark frantically and she ignores them completely. I have seen her veer away from other dogs playing in open spaces. She enjoys sniffing where they have been but not being among them. I suspect she was forced to grow up in a home with children and other dogs and though she is quite friendly to people, she, like me, relishes her solitude. Some dogs run from home (Cheyenne is not one of them and she is impervious to thunder) and they, one hopes are equipped with the direct line to home, a tag, if they are small and easily stolen like this creature: "...didn't have her collar on." Perhaps that wouldn't have saved her from abduction if the person who found her wanted her and didn't do the right thing and drop her off at the SPCA on Stock Island as one should. On our frequent walks around town I see things that strike me but have no context so I take a picture and hope I remember to add to my next list of inconsequential curiosities. Like this shutter next to Blue Heaven restaurant studded with staples. A former public bill board I suppose now painted over. We have had the first round of elections running up to this November and the other day I actually saw someone taking the time to remove a losing candidates bill boards from the side of the road. I wish I remember whose it was. Such civic pride might induce me to vote for them next time around. I am by turns amused and annoyed by misspelled signs. Sometimes I am tripped up by the essential ie spell word checker but I would resist the temptation to post a notice without first checking the spelling.Parking is always an issue in Key West. This next is a shot I took down Southard Street and yet not a few hours later a neighbor from this area called Dispatch to let us know an out of town car was parked in a residential spot (you have to have a tag stamped with the word "Monroe" or have a sticker to enjoy the privilege of these special spots). Parking rubs some people's nerves quite raw. I am glad I live in the suburbs on these occasions, and I feel privileged my expensive vehicles get to sit under the house and out of the sun's damaging rays. This next sign made me laugh out loud; happily it is September and no one was around except Cheyenne to listen to me bray.This sign isn't a misspelling, it's just a sign of age and wear and tear at the elderly Fire Station Number Two on Simonton at Angela Streets.Cheyenne completely ignored this sign on the fence as she stumped by. Perhaps she felt it struck a little too close to her own home.
On the subject of Angela Street this next sign always stirs passers by, the dead end at the cemetery on Angela at Grinnell. However the "one way" sign is now pointing the wrong way. Very confusing. Why the powers-that-be made that decision I couldn't say. I just try to remind myself of the new reality before I embark on the street.A while back they decided to make a bunch of narrow streets in Bahama Village one way in varying directions. I suppose those changes were necessary in these SUV encumbered times but I still find myself making extra circuits in the village in an effort to find a street heading my way. I am a slow learner. Chickens, here's another one for those that like to see them roaming the streets. Actually this is a rooster known to British/English speakers (an intemperate lot) as a cock.A friend gave us a piece of Frangipani promising if we planted it, despite it's severed state, it would grow. This one was trying to make a go of it in a garbage can. I think it's fate is sealed even as mine is showing signs indeed of sprouting. In the midst of life we are in death. This next place has been on the market for some considerable time but unless someone decides to buy it, one has to suppose it will remain moribund on the Boulevard.
I wish they would get a move on, whoever they may be that have faith in the resurgence of the national economy that is continually promised with no evidence to back it up.There are a few VW vans around town. Like classic motorcycles they are a source of nostalgia for me even though I suffered all the traits of unreliability that both my vans could possibly have inflicted on me (and are famous for). If you want to hear my wife swear like a fishwife ask her about the splendid $7,000 Vanagon I insisted we buy years ago to enable us to travel more comfortably (with our then Labrador). I spotted this cyclist on Ashe Street on a 95 degree afternoon. Noel Coward's line about mad dogs and Englishmen sprang to mind. I wished I'd had a heavy sweater I could have offered him.I read from time to time the question on Trip Adviser, "Where do locals eat?" Outback, Miami Subs and so forth are the places locals can afford, but tourists don't want to hear that reality. Conchs do love their Dairy Queen across the street from the Weather Station. They even have stickers on their cars to prove it. No really they do.Dairy Queen is tucked away out of sight but if you want to meet locals at their favorite watering hole that's where you go. Sorry about that, reality intrudes once again. I haven't yet seen 105 degrees on the car temperature gauge as we saw in our cross country trip across the Great Plains this summer. But I did see this:When we started the process of trying to renegotiate our home loan with Wells Fargo the witches of the Bank Too Big Too Fail argued we were spending too much for gas and could cut back to make our $3,000 a month payment on our devalued house more affordable. Yup, sure we could. I expect gas is cheaper where they live and do business collecting TARP funds.It's that time of year again, a new pair of $30 Crocs to replace the last set I wore out over the summer. I went with a different shade this time. The clerk at the Neat Stuff store on Flagler Avenue where I get my Crocs said they are Salmon colored (not crass pink). They are not as nice as my old Fuchsia pair, my wife says, but the old ones were worn completely out. Their state of disrepair would have made the Witches of Wells Fargo happy.And so it goes. New footwear, more bills and summer creeping toward the end of hurricane season. So far so good.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Frances Rambling

This is the time of year when people Up North start thinking fondly of the next season they are to enjoy. Newspaper cartoonists draw pictures of children boarding school buses for the new school year, and trees shed leaves and cartoon neighbors leave their homes bent against autumnal winds with scarves flapping strongly behind them.In Key West September is the heated month of the year, the time when the Earth gives back all the accumulated warmth of summer sun buried in the ground. Winds at these latitudes die down and the ocean waters go flat. Because we are temperate creatures we too start to think, to hope, that soon we may get relief and a cooling breeze. Intellectually we know that the first cold front that presages winter is weeks away, in mid October if we are lucky. Good manners and patience will get us through the slowest and hottest month of the year. Would that everyone made and used a sign as polite and pretty as this:Meteorologists will tell you that August is statistically the hottest month of the year, longer days produce more sunshine and the rebounding heat of May, June and July produces higher temperatures. However I am here to say that September always seems warmer because one is more inclined to hope that the heat will end soon. Sometimes we think the world has reversed itself; we all know that Angela Street alongside the cemetery is one way outbound toward Frances. Not any more, nowadays the one way street is inbound toward Margaret. It's all signposted but I find the situation confusing because I am a creature of habit.I need to make it clear that I don't much mind the heat of summer, a high of 95 degrees and high humidity is relatively comfortable for me, especially considering I work in air conditioning and my home is comfortably air conditioned. Lacking the a/c I wouldn't like it as much I'm sure. Cheyenne is a smart dog- she hunts shade this time of year.
September is also the time of year when parking is available, much of it in this picture is residential, that is to say parking that requires a Florida tag marked "Monroe" indicating a Monroe County resident, or a sticker from city hall authorizing residential parking. However it is an indicator that residents aren't clogging parking spots as they will in a few months when winter starts to bite Up North. A shady street is a good place for a walk.
This is a time of year when there aren't too many people around on the sidewalks, when vehicles come and go from time to time, when,as they say you could fire a cannon down Frances Street and not hit anyone. Cheyenne's pace is slow, for her her a trip to town is a chance to sniff new smells and check out the urban fascination of a somnolent town. For me it's a chance to fiddle with my camera and play with the exposures of the digital settings.Or perhaps a chance to look up in the sky and see I don't know exactly what.
Banana trees are producing fruit, not yet ripe, but I have high hopes as a friend who has a tree can be persuaded this time of year to bring a few home grown bananas round.
I caught this Buddha contemplating an ash try turned upside down. I wondered if perhaps it was the statuette who was responsible for the cessation of the habit...
The disadvantage as I have frequently pointed out, of life in the city at the end of the road, is the lack of space available to residents around more modest dwellings. Be that as it may, creative spaces also abound. One of the pleasures of sub tropical living is the ability to enjoy the outdoors as an extension of the indoors year round.
Everywhere one turns in Key West people are doing clever things with the space and the stuff of daily living that falls to hand.
Mellow fruitfulness is the autumnal season I alluded to earlier, and even though it's not exactly mellow yet, the doves were fighting over berries on this bush.By the time we reached Southard Street I felt that perhaps my dog had sufficient energy to walk back to the car and the cemetery without expiring. We stood under the awning of the old Haitian Art Gallery, now looking rather spiffy as some new gallery, and as we stood I looked across at Cafe Sole. I find it encouraging to see people pedalling in the heat. Perhaps they have no choice as about one third of the city's 23,000 residents have no cars, These bicycles appeared to be the same models equipped the same way and likely for the use of the guests at the nearby Bottle Inn.It looks just as one would imagine a guest house in Key West should look. There are so many of them, and I stay in none of them so I guess it's not surprising I had not previously noticed it, tucked away under it's canopy of leaves.Cheyenne had other things on her mind. Sometimes my dog thinks too much. When she senses a walk is coming to an end she seems to sniff harder and further as though to take advantage of every last moment. She sometimes seems to forget her life has changed and walks are now a twice daily occurrence.

Monday, September 6, 2010

Green Flash

I have been reading Don't Stop The Carnival, a novel by Herman Wouk of the trials and tribulations of owning a Caribbean guest house and a passage about Norman Paperman seeing the famous green flash caught my mental recollector. Several guests left their tables and joined the watching crowd. It was a remarkably clear evening. The sun, it's lower edge already sliding below the purple horizon, was bright as gold. The shiny disk sank to half it's size, reddening and dimming. It went lower turning orange-red, shrinking moment by moment. Soon there was only a glistening orange fragment poked above the ocean- and at that moment Paperman saw it. In the instant of it's vanishing, the last bit of sun turned green. There was a wave of chatter along the rail. Some had seen it, some hadn't, and everyone was talking at once.
I spent years looking out to see hoping for a green flash. In California such a thing isn't possible owing to the fog obstructing the horizon. When I traveled to more benign climates I looked for the mythical green flash. When we sailed south along the coast of Mexico and Central America we looked for the green flash all the way to the Panama Canal and failed to see it. In the Caribbean sailing to Key West, I failed to spot anything remotely resembling a green flash. I despaired.
Then I took a job as a boat captain taking visitors sailing almost every single day around the Key West harbor. Every evening on the water we told clients to look for the green flash as the sun set and sometimes they claimed to see it and tipped me handily for the experience. Then one day I finally saw it; I knew I had seen it and had no doubt. Later that week I saw it again. I have seen the green flash twice. Nowadays I look for it half heartedly because I have seen it and I am satisfied. Only in Key West did I ever see the damned thing, and after thousands of miles of open water sailing and never once. And then twice in one week in Key West. Weird.

(all photos Wikipedia)

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Graziano's Miami

With a trip planned to Miami we found ourselves looking for where to eat, and Josh and Lisa had a plan. "Miami Spice" they said. Miami Spice is apparently an attempt to lure people out to eat in various participating restaurants during the slowest time of the year. The offer supposedly included a $22 prix fixe lunch. So after some wine felled debate we settled on Argentine for lunch followed by a visit to Costco before heading home. I was the only member of our party who has never actually been to Argentina though their taste for meat, slow grilled and largely not spiced is legendary. Graziano's didn't offer the prix fixe lunch on Sundays so we ended up eating rather more extravagantly. I had the $35 prix fixe dinner menu and the others ordered a plate of meat and a side each. The wine list was fabulous with nothing less than $40 a bottle which seemed rather a lot for lunch so we ordered quarter liter carafes which was a nice touch- at $18 apiece they made for doable individual glasses of wine.
My wife's steak was accompanied by a superb risotto but there was so much meat on her plate we ate it for dinner the next night. Josh needed no to go box, finishing his and helping Lisa finish hers. Argentines really do seem to eat a lot of meat at a sitting. My steak came with a side of mashed potatoes and a beaker of salt which I dutifully sprinkled on as instructed, while the meat was sizzling to melt the salt into the meat. I do not usually add salt to my food but when in Argentina one does as the Argentines do and it was excellent. Argentina from everything I have read is a robust country with powerful weather and wide open spaces filled with cowboys and cows and strong winds. I did once harbor the desire to one day sail up the Rio Plata (Silver River) to Buenos Aires (Good Breezes) but having read about the equally robust sailing conditions I rather think I will end up visiting some other way. We ordered two puddings and got three through some clerical error. Another error led us to pass the plates around and taste the delicious cakes and flans until they were empty, whereupon I remembered to take a picture. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if Argentine lunches weren't as slow and languid as ours was in Miami, longer than two hours and long enough to set back our scheduled return to 9pm. Cheyenne was home alone, guarding the homestead by herself on her longest solo flight ever. I was anxious but she was fine when we did get home, if overly happy to see us. Josh was happy, full of meat and wine.
Lisa? Sure, this place was her choice after all so she deserved to take the credit.The bill was $126 plus tip which caused some blanching around the table but considering how extravagant we were it wasn't that bad at all. Argentines take their food seriously.
We lurched out past the display of slow grilled meats in the foyer.
Argentina went through an economic crisis in 2001 similar to what we seem to face now and the country is still struggling to get back on it's feet after bursting it's economic bubble. Yet here in Miami the place was full and it was no wonder that on Sunday they didn't need to employ the Miami Spice menu to entice people in.Coral Gables is an upscale community in the middle of Dade county, inland from metro Miami and developed as a a vision of southern Spanish elegance in the wilderness. The street names are marked on elegant tableaux and reflect the Spanish theme, Asturias, Granada, Seville etc...
It was quite the lunch break in a slow paced shopping day for the small town folk up from Key West.
Josh loves Miami, the bright lights the exotic Latin flavors and the wild displays of ostentatious flair.
I want to like Miami but I wish it were more like San Francisco, a city I managed to get know a bit and always liked for the occasional weekend visit. Miami lacks cohesion in my view and though art deco hotels on South Beach are touted as something woth seeing I found the neighborhoods of San Francisco much more appealing. I thought this picture of Coral Gables city hall looked rather...Argentine? My wife says we need to give Miami another chance and plan tours of places to see this winter. What choice do we have in the depressed era of cheap vacations? Looked at that way an expensive lunch was a cheap trip to Buenos Aires!