I cheered my wife on and thought about the end of school on Friday and summer vacations, once held to allow kids to help bring in the harvest and now practiced as a tradition and little else. I think she'll sleep soundly for a week before she starts planning next year's classroom tactics.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Young Grads
Key West Bight 3
It was a warm night in front of Mac's Seagarden curio shop and a good place and time to have a chat with a friend.
Most people seem to gather at Mallory Square or other preferred spots to watch the magical moment of sunset so the Bight was relatively quiet during my early lunch break one recent evening.
I used to eat raw oysters until it was pointed out to me they are alive in that state and I got the feeling i was eating goldfish so I swore off them.
I don't think many of the places she could see on her map of Key West she would find on the sign post... Fishing anyone?
They seem to have rebuilt the shed on the fuel dock and it looks about right to my untrained eye, as a nice bit of restoration.
The Key West Bight is a pretty place to be at sunset,
and I enjoyed wandering the docks for a little while out of my work night.
Omar And His Dad
Early morning on Sugarloaf Key and I thought why not take Cheyenne down to the bridge so she can sniff and I can take pictures. Good idea.
I came across a couple of anglers, and I must have brought them luck because as soon as I arrived the old man hooked a fish which his son took in his hand covered with a rag, unhooked the fish and tossed it back saying it was too small. The old man peered into the depths disconsolately as the fish disappeared in a flash of silver underwater.
Cheyenne looked like she could get into this fishing lark.
"Too small," Omar told me with a grin.
He is from Cape Coral where he moved after growing up in Miami and he had brought his 75 year old father down for a weekend of fishing to celebrate father's day, albeit a little early. The sun was coming up and he told me they had been there since six the night before, "like me at work," I said.
We talked dogs for a while, about Bo who Omar used to let out first thing in the morning and he would tour the Miami neighborhood before coming home in the evening just before Omar got back from work cleaning pools, and the dog "stank something fierce" from his adventures.
Cheyenne decided she liked the taste of bait fish, and the old man looked down at her and said severely "Es gorda" - she's fat. So she is.
I started to get sleepy and after I gave Omar directions to the Tiki Bar and motel on Ramrod where he had set his heart on spending the next evening drinking Cheyenne and I took off. She was mighty reluctant as the old man still had lots of lovely bait fish to hook.
Omar collected the dead bait from a bucket and sliced them up for his father. "He used to do this for me," he said with a sad little smile,"now I have to do it for him."
The day was looking good, good enough to spend it with your Dad fishing if you were lucky enough to be able to.
Marathon Yacht Club
So the next time some nerd drags you to the end of 33rd Street in Marathon and tells you this is Fort Zinderneuf...
Monday, June 6, 2011
Key West Bight 2
Sunset over the Coastguard Base.
And sunset over civilians enjoying a boat ride, more of a floating bar really on a giant catamaran.
The newspaper says one quarter of all Americans are planning no vacation this summer. Count me among the lucky ones with my increasingly precious government job, and my wife with hers and count us all lucky that tourists keep coming to Key West to spend money. The floating bar was packed.
This basin used to be home to the shrimping fleet, in my own memory, but the waterfront hotels have pushed the old commerce aside and replaced it with the new. Excursions and pirate stories instead of fish and white rubber boots.
The scared and tanned old fishing hounds now trail around Stock Island, cigarettes dangling, loose tank tops dangling from their skinny shoulders and their feet encased in the low white rubber boots that are the official footwear of commercial fishermen in the Keys.
Change is good of course and when more money is to be made it is always better they say, so we rejoice that we have the boats of the gentry to replace the smelly old tubs that caught fish. I have faced the scorn of the pros when I was traveling for pleasure and it's hard to argue that putting to sea when one doesn't have to is an odd occupation. "Like jail with the chance of drowning" as Dr Johnson said, a long time ago.
So many pretty boats, so little actual sea time.
Koftes In Key West
I was in town alone and indecisive so my wife sent me a text from out of town and said go and eat a lamb sandwich at Kennedy Café. She always knows what the best thing is to do, so I did. Except I didn't have a lamb Donner, I had koftes.
Koftes are, as far as I can tel, Mediterranean cuisine's answer to meatballs. I have seen them illustrated in various designs, Greek Turkish and now Uzbek for the Kennedy Café is an Uzbek eatery such is the variety of Key West's hotel help.
One is waited on by sturdy dark eyed Asiatics which is truly exotic, one thinks of Mongolia which I have only ever seen briefly from the window of a train, and Samarkand and the Silk Trade route through Central Asia, which I have a hankering to see. I am really very fond of Kennedy Café.
And the food's really good too. The lamb meatballs were delicious, crispy on the outside an cooked through but not tasteless on the inside and the mashed potatoes were real. The Uzbek bread is interesting stuff with a soft spongy interior and a shiny crust embedded with sesame seeds. I love their lamb sandwiches as a result, Shwarma with a white sauce which is Uzbek I'm told and Donner with a red sauce which I prefer:
The Kennedy Café used to be a Cuban restaurant called Seven Days Deli operated on Kennedy Drive and the decor remains but the food is something quite different. They offer sadly no Uzbek food for breakfast and they offer American food for the other meals of the day though why one would turn down a chance at Central Asia cuisine I cannot possibly imagine.
I guess a lot of it is just variations on Mediterranean stuff that has become known in the US:
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