Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Broken BMW

We were just over a hundred miles from Terni and home and so far our 300 mile ride from the Alps and Cortina d'Ampezzo had been a mixture of overcast and sunny but always dry and we were starting to think we might make it home without getting wet. That would be a first, as every trip since 2007 Giovanni and I have got drenched whether we went south to Naples and Pompeii or north to Tuscany and the Alpe Apuane.

We filled up with gas, Giovanni made a call, and we set off once again to take a high speed blast down the road known as the E45 running from Cesena to Terni, once part of the old Roman Road known as the Via Flaminia and now a useful short cut with no electronic speed traps but filled with pot holes and nasty tar patches and horrible tar ridges. We bounced like broncos as we sped down the highway home.

All went well for ten minutes and that was when my left knee started to feel wet. I looked down and my left knee was soaked. I felt the patch and my gloved finger smelled of gasoline. I looked further and fluid was pouring out from under the plastic shroud on the BMW. I was doing about a hundred miles an hour and faced the very real prospect of turning into a human torch which would have been spectacular if uncomfortable. Happily the K1200S has superb brakes and I slowed to a walking pace very rapidly.

Giovanni stopped alongside me and I motioned him away as white steam poured off the bike. I tore my saddlebags off and stepped back. So far so good. I stank like a petrol bowser and the bike trailed a wet streak down the road as far as the eye could see. I had just dropped five gallons of ten dollar gas all over the road and myself.

a car passed by and sounded its horn. It was Giuseppe with whom we had dinner one night up in the mountains! He was delighted to join in the fun while his wife sat in the car and left the boys to be boys with the broken bike that was at last no longer steaming.

Giovanni called BMW assistance and we had forty minutes to shoot the breeze. The boys talked cars.
Giovanni: "There goes a Nissan Juke. I rented one of those in Holland last Spring. Nice car."
Giuseppe: "Your wife's car has the same engine."
Giovanni: "Never its a Mercedes."
Giuseppe: " Yes it is. The diesel version is made by Renault."

This was not a quite what the doctor wanted to hear but diesel engines get a slight tax break in Italy so they are quite popular. You'd be surprised how many of your favorite cars can come with diesel engines. They run just like gasoline engines with much better mileage. Too sensible for US consumption.

Here came the help after we spent twenty silly minutes staring up the road as though wishing would make it arrive faster.

The general conviction among the boys was that the fuel hose had come undone and if we had the correct Torx wrench we could remove the acres of plastic paneling and fix the machine ourselves. I wasn't convinced this was a brilliant idea, being as how I still smelled of gasoline and was still grateful I had not had to give a demonstration of a human torch riding a motorcycle. A second opportunity to do same did not seem my optimal option so I wanted a pro to do the delving into the cause. Everyone conferred.

The tow truck driver was adamant, we towed or he left. We towed. Giovanni got astride the stricken beast.

"Sorry about the flat bed," he said," its a bit slippery. I towed a burned out car yesterday and there's oil everywhere." Well, its just a friend's $20,000 bike....

It was a delicate operation. I made good use of my camera.

"No one is allowed to ride on the flat bed."

I was quite surprised Gabriel Byrne was moonlighting as a tow truck driver, but there he was large as life in the cab with me.
If he wasn't the Irish actor they were clearly separated at birth.
Gabriel Byrne 2010.jpg
 
Back in the real world we paid 60 Euro ($90) for the tow to the Perugia BMW dealer where, as it was Sunday the shop was closed.

So we pushed the stricken bike out of sight into the back, wrote a note and dropped the note and the ignition key in the drop box. Giuseppe had loaded my bags into his car and he dropped them off at Giovanni's home for me. It only remained for me to get on the back of Giovanni's bike and off we went...we got rained on an hour from home but that was par for the course.

My wife sent me a picture of my dog waiting for me to come home. She looked quite happy without me.

My life seemed for the moment like a country western song, no bike no dog...And the repair, completed the next day showed a broken fuel line attachment replaced at a cost of seventy Euro- $105.


BMWs don't come cheap, but it turns out they DO break.

 

Monday, September 23, 2013

Flying The Friendly Skies

I am resuming a series of essays from recent trip to Italy that were interrupted by a shortage of Internet in my traveling life. Let me start by stating clearly that I got home Thursday September 19th in the middle of the night and very glad I was to get home after two weeks away. It was an excellent trip but home is home and I needed to get my dog over her irritation at my sudden disappearance.

 

I am not a fan of flying, as may have become apparent recently. I dislike the loss of control over one's life when airlines dictate one's every move. Cabin crew used to be glamorous people reeking of sex in the sky and hot hotel dates with pilots and rich businessmen far from home. Nowadays they more closely resembled harried hotel staff serving second rate food and minuscule drinks to passengers crammed like sardines. I flew home on American and frankly it was a let down compared to the rather more upscale accommodations previously recorded on the much maligned Air Berlin flight I took the other way. The American Airways flight had manky little video screens in the middle of the cabin, and two movies run at the pilot's convenience, the cabin crew were not as glad to see us as the introductory video seemed to imply and unlike Air Berlin we never got warm towels to wash with nor bottles of water to drink at will, and on and on and on.I just focused on the fact that my tickets were free thanks to my wife's judicious use to the American Airlines credit card, free to Rome and back. Cool.

 
 
I had some Italian reading matter with me so when electronics were ordered switched off I could happily read the newspaper and my favorite magazine, Classic (d'Epoca) Motociclismo. They had a comparison of World War Two sidecars, a water cooled Zundapp 125 from the 1970s and a Swiss 350 from Motosacoche. A preponderance of Germanic stuff but nevertheless...
 
 
"Are you into vintage bikes then?" my next seat neighbor leaned over and asked me. Jeremy is from San Antonio and rides, wasn't I surprised, a Norton a Moto Guzzi and a vintage Triumph. We nattered on for a while, me trying to hide my envy. I mean, yeah I do have a1979 Vespa which is a vintage machine, but really compared to a Moto Guzzi T850/1000 that doesn't really count. What are the chances? "I've seen prettier heads on zits," he remarked when he saw my iPad rendering of him.
Get this he also was known to me from an article he wrote about riding vintage bikes in Corsica, an article I read avidly in my copy of Motorcycle Classics magazine. He got a chance to ride an Ariel 1000, known as a Squariel because of Turner's odd choice of four cylinder configuration. He really liked it and was surprised by the quality of the ride. Read about it here:

I was entranced trying to figure how to convince my wife this would be worth trying: http://www.cbesprit.com/ Do you think this cheerful hopeful smile might work?

I managed to pay Jeremy back by letting him read a book off my mini iPad (an electronic device I have come to love more than the full sized iPad!) http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Adventurer-Stearns-Motorcyclist-1912-1913/dp/1450221416 He was into it.

We read for a while and we talked and I let him know about the joys of modern Bonneville, which he has been wavering about buying. I convinced him it is a an easy to live with modern machine that he agrees looks good. 76,000 trouble free miles is quite an endorsement.

Then we got to Chicago and my most interesting travel companion was gone. I hope to keep in touch. Great fun and thus a much better trip than I expected or deserved. And I don't blame hi m for the horrid head cold and cough American Airlines gave me.

 

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Poker Run, Key West

I like the classics among all the many versions of Harley Davidsons parked on Lower Duval Street for he weekend of festivities.
A 1975 Yamaha RD350 two stroke with a mere 2500 miles on it. And a nearly naked babe recline nearby, not  exactly a classic but its  what people expect  from a gathering of  bikers.
Key West brings its own sense of humor to a gathering of badass bikers.

And the serious looking hardcore women just look out of place in a town devoted to old fashioned fun.
All the gear all the ime. As long as they are flags.
Rum Barrel a couple of blocks off Duval looked a better spot to hang out.
A tad more crowded on the main drag.

the most popular BMW ever looked out of place to me. But she liked it.
An old BSA turned into something unrideable but interesting to look at.
Some wacko warmed the Ickes of my heart by bringing an MV Agusta 675 triple to this event. I wished I was twenty again!
Another Beeza made unrideable, chopped this time but with sensible soft panniers. Perhaps this one was ridden here? Lovely!
Another vintage two stroke, a perfect, unaltered screaming Kawasaki 500 triple. Check out those sticky-outy cylinders!

Selling something I think.
Street scenes.



I have no idea what to say. This is not really my cup of tea.
Saw these guys wobbling their way up the beach as I left town to go home. Cheyenne was waiting for me. We're friends again. Phew!