Monday, March 5, 2012

Strippers And Liquor and Dions Chicken

Kristi tells me she received a text around one o'clock in the morning from Fred. "He's got five strippers from England in his lap rubbing their titties in his face. Epic!" She works the nights Fred and I are off so she shared this unlikely scenario with her colleagues on the Alpha Night shift at the Police Station. I'm sure they were as startled as I was to find myself in this unlikely situation.





I actually think it may even be true though my recollection of the incident is a trifle vague. I recall Giselle sitting on my lap asking me how old I thought she was and when I guessed 30 she smiled happily and whispered back "40” as she rubbed her own pair in my face, and her rubbery bottom in my lap. It was a long night though my own boast was that I out drank, out ate and out lap danced the men half my age, and they admitted it.





Fred had decided, against my better judgement that we needed to go out on the town for a night and as we weren't working last Saturday that was the night. "Get your balls out of your wife's purse and show up at my house at 5:30” were my instructions when I demurred saying my wife liked me at home on a Saturday evening. We'll have a go at the drinking game at the Hog's Breath, beer at the Porch, strippers at Bare Assets and finish up with fried chicken from Dions he said, then we were to pass out in his man cave.

Fred is eight feet tall, built like a brick shit house and used to work as a bouncer in an LA night club after his Hollywood career foundered (he was a production assistant on the TV show Dexter). He looks like my younger brother. I felt an obligation to show up on time and I parked the Bonneville in front of his place just a few minutes past the appointed time. He and his two male roommates live in a house designed for single men with disposable incomes. I helped myself from the beer refrigerator lit up like a lighthouse in the living room, and the drinking began.

I was adamant we needed food so after picking up Joe, a lanky laconic man who manhandles glass for a living we repaired to the Brazilian meat shop called Braza Leña on Caroline Street. We sat at the bar, instantly lowering the tone of the place and sank straight Zacapa rum from Guatemala. Joe and I had meat platters while Fred had a hamburger and mashed potatoes. Joe failed to clean his platter so I helped out as I cleared my second glass of rum. I was already ahead on the eating and drinking when we left the restaurant.

I had never even heard of the drinking game at Hogs Breath but this was an evening of firsts so off we went. The crowd was intense, packed in tight, so I fell in behind Fred who swam like a shark through the swarms of little people standing around glassy eyed waiting for something cool to happen at the outdoor bar. I followed Fred's seven league boots and we stormed up flights of stairs to a secret location high atop the Hogs Breath, where they took our tickets and slipped us into a carpeted, soothingly calm speakeasy with a bar, dimmed lights and a small stage. I half expected exotic French strippers to come out of the wings and commit unspeakable sex acts on themselves on stage. Ping pong balls, champagne flutes and lighted cigarettes, that sort of thing, but instead we got a jolly all American romp with drinking, drunken innuendo and terrifying audience participation as the skits succeeded one another. I ducked behind Fred's broad back when audience members were selected. Everyone there knew Fred ("Hey, Fred!" is the mating call of the bigger breasted Key West warbler) so we had lots of female attention at our tiny table covered in beer bottles and male elbows. The drink was taking it's toll as we rested heavily on the furniture. I thought a lanky babe in a black cat suit and a bobbed hair cut looked the part and Fred choked on his Red Stripe when I suggested she was prowling the audience like a panther in heat.

Fred had never been to the Chart Room inside the Pier House hotel so we strolled over and wedged our three beards inside the tiny little skanky room. I had no idea what to drink so while Joe ordered a dreary Corona, Fred and I cast around for a suitably celebratory drink. We settled on a Dark and Stormy - Bermuda rum with ginger beer. So delicious we ordered a second round and took it in to-go cups. Which may have been the edge of the precipice as far as the rest of the evening went. To my bemused astonishment I found myself navigating Duval Street with a large plastic cup in my hand. I really am a tourist I thought to myself as we pulled up at the Porch where a glass of Belgian Palm Ale materialized in my free hand.





It was a glorious warm evening on the steps of the porch. The bar was crowded with hip young things so we workers retreated to the outside steps and sat, holding two drinks and stared owlishly at the moon between the trees and into the cleavage of passing patrons as they wobbled laboriously up the steps of the Porter Mansion, their high heels clicking on the wooden stairs.

"Good grief!" I said, in horror. "Isn't that the captain?" I asked Fred who was marginally less squiffy than me, and thus still capable of identifying incoming threats. Yup, it was he, tall and lantern jawed in a well cut pale cream shirt with a fashionably malnourished female on his arm, both laughing and apparently sober. I was having flashbacks to school years when I habitually seemed to get trapped in the pub, my presence beyond illegal, by the sudden appearance of a teacher in the lounge bar.

Fred was horny for his lap dance so my misgivings notwithstanding we shuffled down the stairs, ducking and twisting until "Hey Michael! Don't get to see you down here," he said affably, his white choppers gleaming in the half light as he smiled while cornering me in some rather intrusive landscaping. Later Fred said I was quite the spectacle, busted on my way out onto the street double fisted with a Dark and Stormy in one hand and a Palm in the other. "Where are you off to?" the Captain inquired sounding to my addled brain like the Grand Inquisitor reaching for his branding iron. "Bare Assets," I replied caught in the twin beams of his piercing blue eyes. His eyebrows rose in surprise and it turns out approval. "Good job," he said or words to that effect. I was even more squiffy by now.
Weird, I thought, the Captain thinks I'm someone I didn't know I was.





Bare Assets is huge with a large stage across the middle of the room and tables around the edges and a long dark curtained-off room painted black with a bench along the length of the longest wall. It cost us $140 to get in with a supply of coca cola and a bottle of rum at a table. The women swarmed, I grinned stupidly and their complicated string bikinis evaporated so in the reddish glow of the mood lighting I found myself surrounded by warm brown skin and strange child-like hairless genitalia. My first lap dance was with Giselle whose opening conversational gambit, "Oh my God you're English" promised a lot of explanations. We repaired to the black room where she sat on my knee and we talked or something.





"Dude" Fred said later, "you were in there for half an hour." Well yes it was expensive but Giselle spread the word there was an English guy in the room and it turned out there was a bevy of young Englishwomen touring South Florida and removing their clothes as they went. They descended on me and the fact that I was well supplied with twenty dollar bills had nothing whatsoever to do with it. It was a blast, silly and funny and pointless. I loved those women if only for a little while. I do wish modern women were allowed to grow pubic hair but I am old fashioned.

Hunger overcame me before I ran out of twenties and a return visit to the ATM was out of the question...my wife was not an eager co-conspirator in this madness as it was. I looked for Fred. Not seeing him meant he was in the black room. I had no idea in my befuddled state that unaccompanied men aren't allowed past the curtain. Hey Fred, I called out to my buddy sitting on the bench with a very thin (American) blonde woman gyrating on his genitals. He looked happy. "I'm hungry" I called out. "Time for Dions chicken," spoken like an impatient pre-teen bursting in on his parents fucking. "You can't be in here," she hissed. Oh sorry, I said and I am told I cheerfully slapped her on her perfect buttocks and strolled out, leaving them staring in astonishment.

I have been told that story three times, and apparently it is not normal behavior at Bare Assets, and I said to Fred, sadly, "I'm never going to live this down am I?"
"Nothing to live down," Fred said laughing cheerfully. "It was absolutely fucking awesome. We both loved it."

Double weird: he thinks I'm awesome because I don't know strip cIub etiquette. We got the chicken, two pieces, fried potatoes, mac and cheese and a dinner roll. Brilliantly I thought to buy a large bottle of water. We went back to Fred's man cave, turned on Justified, Season Three and wolfed chicken. "I'm done, man," Fred burped and lurched off the couch, leaving me in charge of the world's most complex remote control. The screen went dark finally as did I. At last.

EPILOGUE.

I awoke the next morning to find a tall shadow leaning inquisitively over my couch. Hullo, I said, I'm Michael, a friend of Fred's. He nodded and grunted and disappeared. "There's an Irishman sleeping on the couch," he apparently told Fred in some puzzlement. "He's very polite." No one else appeared so I got up and walked out into the garden, looked up the canal at low gray clouds scudding along driven by strong moist winds promising rain. It felt as hot and damp as a whore's armpit and I was hungry. I texted Fred and got a reply that indicated he was hung over, while I was not. Score one for age and experience and a large bottle of water. I had pancakes and bacon and coffee and felt excellent. The families and their children and their SUVs looked dreary and suburban after last night, especially when I looked out and saw my Bonneville. The ride home was the icing on the cake, a gray windy day, a clear head and that perfect motorcycle. My short suffering wife took it well but when she asked why I hadn't drunk texted her during the evening I explained the words 'lap dance' and 'wife' don't really fit well in a sentence together. She didn't really understand.



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Sunday, March 4, 2012

Cheyenne And The Blimp Road Ramp

I hadn't been up Blimp Road on Cudjoe Key in a while.


I had already walked Cheyenne but I had time to spare so I took the dog up to the end of the road to take a look at the Gulf of Mexico.


Blimp Road is a long straight road that heads dead due north from the Overseas Highway near Mile Marker 22.


It's mostly undeveloped water and mud and mangrove around here.


And long views out across the water.


I have no idea what that foamy stuff is that washes up on beaches everywhere but I guess it's some sort of frothed up seawater.


The boat ramp at then end of the road is a simple affair built up wo sacks of cement it seems.


Shallow water bathing is Cheyenne's specialty. Happy Dog Alert.


The end of the road just dips into the water, buttressed by some loose bags of rock hard cement.


I really do like these views. It's not mountainous but it has it's appeal.


Amanda in the BVI walks with me when I wear my pink Crocs that she mailed me. Read her blog.


In the distance I could see another place I haven't been in a while. Tarpon Belly Key is a lump of actual rock and dirt that used to house a shrimp farm years ago and lives on as assorted lumps of cement on the two little islands. It's a fine spot to camp if you have a boat. And a tent.


Cheyenne and I sat and looked at the water for a while.


The reason this street is called Blimp Road is because the is an Air Force Base almost at the end which houses a blimp flying in the sky scanning the Straits of Florida for unauthorized boats and planes approaching Florida.


Oops, there's Fat Albert spending sixteen million of your dollars every year to keep Haitians and drugs away.


I like Blimp Road.


It's not a long drive nor a challenging one, but it's worth it.


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Saturday, March 3, 2012

Spinning Wheels

A quintessential Key West scene, eating seafood roadside with your bicycle parked nearby.


It's stone crab season about now though I am one of those who wonder at the effort it takes to catch crack and cook the claws for the meat thereby gained. At least the crab doesn't give up it's life to feed the fad. Construction and renovation will keep rearing it's head in these essays:


This old loading dock off Eaton at Grinnell looks like it will soon be something else.


The picture above confirms my recent statement that in Key West men always ride in front of women. Len argued unconvincingly that he rides in front of his wife because he is the only one who knows where they are going. The dude below was earnestly peddling a contraption that rivals my pink Crocs for sissiness.


This family got strung out on their bicycles. This youngster peddled hard to keep up with Mom somewhere off Southard Street...


...or was it Fleming? The rest of the brood chased along like ducklings crossing the street.


This elderly MG moves around town from time to time, the occupants as exposed to the weather as though riding a motorcycle, with all the disadvantages of bulk of a four wheeler.


But with the advantage of Fantasy Fest beads on the hood.


My wife lusts after a Fiat 500 convertible like this one.


It seems we are not alone in our attraction toward the new flagship of the revived Italian marque in the US.


I see these $20,000 wheels all over the place in South Florida. Too bad the flat economy makes it seem like an extravagance. Fiat 500 for her, Dodge Dart / Alfa Romeo Giulietta for him. Next year, after the Depression!


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Friday, March 2, 2012

Street Art

Walking has always been an enormous pleasure for me, an activity some associate with earnest exercise or low rent transportation. In Key West walking brings with it the opportunity to see things not otherwise visible to the motorized passerby. Stained glass in a church window,


...or this, associated with a guest house of the same name.


I wonder where they find these plaques, possibly on E Bay I suppose these days. Orchids are available in shops and flourish year round:


Key West's elderly housing stock makes for picturesque street scenes but the need to create apartments wherever one will fit often creates scenes like this one high above the street:


Small gardens get maximum decoration. This would not be noticed from the seat of a passing scooter, but a walker will get the chance to check it out.


Multiculturalism above and a long dead Christmas shrub, still bravely decorated below:


The sunlight in these pictures has a bright summer quality to it, putting everything into sharp relief.


We end where we started, al tire on a wall. As though real live palms abundant everywhere weren't enough.


A visitor I spoke with said she tried a scooter to cross town, then a bicycle but she reverted to walking to allow herself the greatest amount of time possible to check out every single thing Key West streets have to offer. This essay is for her.



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Thursday, March 1, 2012

Walking And Reading

I took this picture at Truman Avenue thinking I might use it to illustrate some point about the lack of self serve car washes in the Lower Keys. One has to make do, in this instance and I either wash the car at home or sometimes I stop in Key Largo and use the facilities there to restore the car to cleanliness.


Then instead of rambling on about how hard car care is in Key West, the principal piece of advice I have, is to not drive an exotic car as you don't want to have to take it to Miami for a mechanic to do the least thing. Which is where I resume my original thread about a bunch of odd little signs, seen recently.


En Français a bizarre dog is just that with no further explanation offered while the sign in English below makes the case that mayhem may ensue if you ignore the advice.


This sign below, photographed previously on this page is a nice reminder that the sign above originated as the sign below, but 'be aware' is now commonly abbreviated into the more common 'beware.'


A blob behind José's Cantina as was, on White Street. It used to be a Cuba restaurant but I suppose now that it's closed the Blob might as well be eating Chinese dumplings.


I wonder what this bumper sticker means? I rather suspect the owner thinks that if you disagree with him you are flat wrong. And screw you if you disagree. Civility in public discourse? How old fashioned!


I wonder how many people have seen the connection between the Corsican Constitution of 1755 as authored by Pasquale de Paoli the revolutionary leader of Corsican Independence doomed to live out his life in exile in London, and the US declaration of independence published two decades later? I how that comparison would be received by the owner of the sticker.

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Bahama Village Stroll 2

A surfboard as decoration seems entirely suitable to me in a town surrounded only by reefs and shallow waters not capable of creating proper tubular waves.


I have seen a lot of construction and renovation in Key West and I have remarked on it previously on this page, yet there remain not a few homes that are being allowed to fall slowly into their constituent parts, like this one:


I speculated with a friend about why this is in a town where the dirt is as valuable as it is in Key West. The conclusion we came to is that most likely out of town relatives end up arguing over an inheritance and entropy sets in while lawyers debate.


I like wandering around pretending to be a tourist. Like these French speakers marching past this particular residence in the village, I blended right in with my camera and my wide eyed gaze.


I noticed and enjoyed the juxtaposition of the stickers, patriotism and gross bad manners. What was the child thinking when he attached them so carelessly to his truck? Has he never heard of Mom and Apple Pie?


A modern home this next one as though dropped here from some damp moldy redwood forest in the Pacific Northwest. The chimney and the porthole remind me of the desire for heat and natural light often found in buildings in that nasty wet climate.


Public housing and the landmark Cornish AME church on Whitehead Street:


I saw these two dudes on Petronia Street acting all 2005 when any of us had the credit to buy a Key West mansion. I enjoyed the boom years even if they were fake and filled with hopeless lines of credit instead of wealth.


The Lemonade Art Stand has finally transitioned into something new and pretty across the street from Blue Heaven:


Another fine summer day in February in Key West, North America's best walking town.


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