Sunday, December 1, 2013

Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State Park

It's one of those things that happens to all of us; we live right next to this attraction that visitors come from all over to see, and all we do is drive right by every time we go to the mainland. I am a bit surprised I have never previously visited this state park but there it is. I noticed it on the Friday returning from Sarasota, so that Sunday I took the Vespa 58 miles from my house to Mile Marker 85 in Islamorada.

Welcome to Florida State Parks

Windley Key it turns out is one of the higher islands in the chain created out of coral reefs that dried out when seas receded, but it's main claim to fame is Flagler's Quarry, because it turns out the railroad used crushed rock mined here go build the rail bed. So the state park has two components, the geologic history and the human history, principally Flagler's East Coast extension railroad.

 

I have to say I was surprised to see Jack Riepe captured as a young man writing his heart out in a wicker chair in the lounge car of a publicity picture for the 1912 train. He was obviously thinner back then but there he was, penning his immortal prose promoting modern transportation:

The visitor center is full of the usual displays and explanations:

Snails and trains. Flagler bought the Windley Key land for $852 they tell us. Which considering how little people earned, ten dollars a week for trained labor, at the turn of the century it was an enormous sum.

They have excellent historic pictures on display. Unfortunately photography was cumbersome so all people in the pictures have that stolid wooden posed expression to them. The machinery as we shall see is preserved, even if the people have gone to their reward by now.

This model explains the evolution of Windley Key over the past 125,000 years (creationists need to skip this bit for the numbers won't make sense of course) when sea levels rose and fell as polar ice melted and reformed at assorted intervals 100,000 and 20,000 years ago. The coral built up and hot left high and dry until Flagler's engineers came along and dug the quarry as represented by the cut at the left.

Enough indoor stuff, time to enjoy some trails...outside the visitor center there was a fine example of a channel cutter on its rails. Apparently the machine had a gasoline engine for the oscillating blades on either side that could cut the coral rock six inches deep at one go.

The operator would flush the channel with saltwater and after making enough passes to cut the rock to a depth of say ten feet they would turn the machine at ninety degrees and do the same all over again. Then using wedges or dynamite (!) they would detach the cubes and sell them as ornamental rocks fit for carving.

All this effort they figured out when they had done pulverizing the coral rock for use as filler in the rail bed.

I took far too many pictures of the three trails in the park, but figure it was a lovely warm fall afternoon, clear blue skies, bright sunshine and dry shirt sleeve temperatures around 80 degrees.

I had the park to myself and I spent two very happy hours wandering around and enjoying the different spaces. This is the original Flagler Quarry:

This is what the coral rock looked like after the channel cutter had its way with it:

I confess I stretched out on a picnic table and occupied myself gainfully for a little while doing my favorite meditation, which is looking up through tree branches.
The quarry looks like it would be an excellent spot for a picnic. I believe there is a guppy grocery store in Islamorada near by which might suit that purpose.
My wife and dog were in Pensacola for the Thanksgiving holiday so I was left to my own devices for this little ride. I decided to take the 150cc Vespa for the sixty mile trip up the Keys. I could have ridden the Bonneville but like they say it's more fun to ride a slow bike fastly than a fast bike slowly. Not that the Bonneville is fast by sport bike standards but consider I took great pleasure embarrassing rude mainlanders in their huge SUVs who passed me on double yellow lines in their rush to get to Miami but couldn't shake me off their tails where I sat at a surprising sixty confounding their ideas about "mopeds" lack of performance! Childish I know.
I took the sunset trail first, planning to sit at waters edge and watch the sun descend.

I should like a plant with a silly billy name like "wild dilly." I never remember what they are called after I leave the parks and their handy labels. I did see something special in the visitor center on the subject of labels. Someone, not attributed had put together an exquisite catalogue of plants, delicate water colors under plastic in a binder listing alphabetically all and any plants likely to be found in the park. State parks really are a labor of love, and anyone who tells you government sucks is someone who knows very little of what motivates the best in this country.

Frankly I could do without the eight trillion dollars of debt W's Iraq War generated but he did make Iraqi oil safe for Exxon. I'd rather see eight trillion wasted building up our parks and roads and bridges but that would be government waste... The sunset trail appears to be a work in progress, rough hewn as it were:

Instead of ending up at a splendid overlook at water’s edge I found this rather brusque notice:

I suppose in the fullness of time this too will get sorted. The Hammock Trail is completed and very nice it is too winding its way for 15 minutes through gumbo limbo and...other magnificent trees.

By Florida a Keys standards the land is quite hilly, with dips and rises, elevation changes of six or seven feet, exaggerated by the rock quarrying here and there.

With everything explored and studied it was a quarter to five in the afternoon and time to leave before they closed the gate promptly right at five. According to the ranger it's the time of year these monstrous vast spiders, this one the size of my phone, spin their webs. She said the females are the big ones, the males are much smaller. Nice I said, finally a species where the bloke doesn't have to do the heavy lifting. She smiled, yes but he also dies after only one year of life. Umm... I have naturally forgotten the name of the breed.

I got out in time, the gate was still open, back to the hurly burly of a busy Overseas Highway.

The traffic was mostly headed north back to another week of traffic jams and crowds and big city routines. I pointed the Vespa south and west and opened her up. At sea level with a following wind 55 was easy, sixty felt brisk and purposeful. Cars in my direction were few and we disposed of the below speed limit dawdlers before they realized the moped was crushing their penises by passing them. Then they fell back as though they meant to let the annoying wasp go by. I made good time.

I got home as the sun was setting. I couldn't stop on the seven mile bridge but the sunset was spectacular, orange sun burst through gray clouds and rippling yet smooth water on either side of the bridge. It was good, especially as I got through Big Pine in daylight, barely, before the painful 35 mile per hour limit takes effect.i stopped for gas at the end of my street, 1.7 gallons for 120 miles (7 liters for 200 kilometers) which roughly translates to 70miles per gallon or 28 kilometers per liter. At full throttle much of the time that's not bad. Not bad at all, and great fun.

Finally a picture of my beloved who has spent the past week Up North, by all reports having a grand time without me. Seen here courtesy of my wife walking in Fort Pickens - Gulf Islands. Finally we are to be reunited tonight and I can't wait.

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Saturday, November 30, 2013

Onlywood Revisted

It was a lovely summer day in November and my wife and I had finished our business just at lunch time so when my wife said she didn't want to make any choices I chose. I enjoyed Onlywood so much last time with George I figured my wife deserved a shot at this real Italian food.
They have this funky four sided gazebo bar thing in the middle of the room and you can eat there too if you want but it was warm enough outside our waiter directed us to a table underneath the fan at our request. He pegged that right and we enjoyed the cool breeze through lunch, with started with a bread basket and olive oil and vinegar.

After the bread basket we shared a plate of shellfish, classic Italian mussels and clams in a salty lightly tomato flavored broth. I really liked how they served this dish first bringing us a bowl with a fork and spoon so when the shellfish came we used the bowl for the shells. It was simple and elegant and the appetizer was perfect. Much enjoyed.

The restaurant isn't huge but the windows open on the garden so hardy visitors can sit outdoors and bake. And wilting indoor diners can enjoy some natural light. I can moly imagine how pretty the garden is under a full winter moon on a cool January evening.

The second course was a shared pizza and I enjoyed the one George ordered so I figured my wife might like the four pork pizza, with ...four different meats. The drink pictured was iced tea which glass was replaced as fast as I emptied it.

A group of French diners were enjoying their lunch and they were going the full nine yards with all courses. We skipped the rather interesting desserts but I think a nice ice cream cassata might be an excellent way to end a meal here.

The pizza comes from a wood oven in the corner of the restaurant and in proper modern Italian style the crust is thin but pliable and the toppings aren't thick enough to create a pool of melted grease.

Training a new cook the owner was busy with a heat sensor explaining the fine art of enough but not too much heat on the baking pizza.

We enjoyed our meal but we couldn't finish theists which my wife generously ordered boxed and I took the last slice to work. We also ate the pizza Italian style with a knife and fork, in civilized fashion.

A solo meal would be great at the bar.

I am really enjoying Onlywood, good value decent food and real Italian cooking. If you want to see how modern Italians eat out check this place. It's growing on me and I can't help it. Oh and we paid $36 for the food and my bottomless iced tea, tax and tip.

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Cheyenne In The Cold

It has been a tough ten days for me, being at home with no dog, going to,work and coming home to an empty house. Poor me. This was what was missing:

I am told Cheyenne had a pretty good time Up North in the Florida panhandle where temperatures dropped to near forty degrees, historic lows for Key West but merely brisk in that part of Florida which gets winter frosts.

My wife knew Thèrese when they lived in Birmingham decades ago and my wife being the social butterfly she is has kept in touch ever since and when Thèrese retired from her globe trotting life and settled in Pensacola the two old friends decided Thanksgiving was a good time to spend together as my wife, not retired got the week off from teaching. And she took my dog to the frigid north where Cheyenne, who usually seeks the cold spot on the floor, got into sleeping in warm spots.

Apparently she even burrowed under a blanket at one point so one has to assume the harshness of the climate got through her thick Labrador fur. From the pictures I was sent you'd think my Labrador did nothing but sleep however I am assured that is not the case...

On Monday they took an overnight trip to New Orleans where my wife tells me Cheyenne wore herself out sniffing and walking. Tuesday morning, without me my wife breakfasted at the Café du Monde, where from previous experience she knew Cheyenne had to stay outside the fence.
At a guess I would say she preferred the idea of the beignet rather than the cafe au lait but considering how much beignet my wife woofed I wonder if poor Cheyenne even got a taste.

Doesn't look like it, poor thing.

New Orleans has often been described as picturesque but you wouldn't know if you walked Cheyenne there as she always seems to drag you to the industrial zones or the backs of restaurants where all the best smells are.

Eventually my wife got her to where she needed to go in the middle of a wild rain and wind storm which was freezing cold she said so this is the best picture I got of a night of debauchery (avert your eyes Cheyenne).

Whatever they did in the French Quarter wore her out because she wouldn't budge from the doorway of the elevator back at the hotel, thus holding them all in the lobby. Good dog.
That was a well worn out dog.

Home at last and that is a good thing.

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