Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Brigadoon By The Sea

It was brought home to me recently in a couple of conversations that I have had that "Brigadoon" is no longer a cross generational metaphor. Three people under the age of forty that I spoke with had no idea what I meant when I said Key West is like Brigadoon, the mythical town where time stands still and no one can leave. The fact that the younger generation has never heard of Lerner and Lowe doesn't alter the fact that Key West is becoming, in my own mind at least, a mythical town where the normal rules don't seem to apply.


I find it embarrassing when I talk to people (older or younger) in other parts of the country and I hear tales of woe. The economy is the ubiquitous lament and I hear horror stories of lay offs and cut backs and unlikely hopes for improvement. How's Key West? they ask. And I am forced to say, fine, and the truth is it makes me feel slightly embarrassed. How is it that Key West, among all destinations in the Sunshine State is seeing higher than ever tourist counts? It's true, Key West remains a prime draw, despite the fearsome recession/depression sweeping the planet.There is a lot of theorizing that goes into considerations for the whys and wherefores of Key West's success and my own belief is that as a destination Key West remains a great place to visit, the weather is mostly excellent and on top of those perennial draws Key West is also a safe reliable destination close enough to home with a touch of the exotic. Thus a habitual Caribbean traveler or a sun worshipper who might like the Seychelles can get some of that sunny beach pleasure here for a lot less money. Plus one can consider that for a Miami resident a car trip to Key West is a world away in less than a hundred and thirty miles. A weekend in Key West would cost a lot less than Madrid, or Rio or Cartagena de las Indias .

Whatever the reason they keep coming and bringing their money and Key West benefits from the attention. Which is not to say everything is perfect. Consider that had this recession followed a period of normal economic stability people would be feeling the pinch, but the last decade before the recession was a time of debt fueled boom so the depression today is a decided downer. There are homes in foreclosure and owned by the bank in these islands of course but not like the mainland. There are unemployed down here too, but many simply choose to leave the islands when they lose their jobs and go home to their families so statistics look unusually rosy. On the other hand Key West is a place that does have jobs, though housing remains exceptionally expensive, especially for renters. And the quality of places to rent isn't always great though frequently they are picturesque.The peculiarities of life in a small insular town at the end of a long peninsula aren't easy to explain to people who have never lived here and I frequently hear how other places are very similar. Not so, in my opinion. Key West's isolation makes life here an especially complicated dance. Consider something as simple as dating. I'm married so I hear the horror stories from those less settled than I, but the reality is obvious. A bad date can have a huge impact on a social life in a town where paths are constantly crossing. Isolated communities require particularly adept social behavior because if one violates the mores isolation and rejection is complete. You cannot simply drive thirty minutes to a new town, fresh bars and be a stranger in an unknown social scene. There is nowhere else to go and if a newcomer makes a faux pas the repercussions will be endless. I frequently note that Key West seems to reject some people and welcome others, apparently at random and in defiance of how much someone may think they want to live here.I feel lucky to live here, not least as the economy of our globally interconnected world crumbles. Contraction is the new social and economic order, not yet recognized by our leaders at large, and in Key West we seem to have a society uniquely adapted to our new circumstances. Social strata are poorly defined by status symbols here and a bicycle is as useful to a millionaire as to his residentially challenged neighbor. Key West's climate requires no heating oil, and vegetables grow in winter. It may be too hot sometimes for Cheyenne but for me endless sun and heat in an eternal summer is just what the doctor ordered.
So, in conclusion, how is life in Key West? The answer is, if you have a job you like, a motorcycle to ride year round, a partner you can rely on, and a few friends, life is awesome. Surprisingly awesome in fact. I'd recommend it whether or not a recession were mowing down the municipalities Up North. As it is perhaps Brigadoon's biggest drawback is that the legend doesn't allow one to leave. Ever. I'm lucky that for the first time in my life I am happy to be stuck in a job, in a routine, in a town with a healthy budget and no awareness at all of the misery sweeping much of the rest of the world. Long may it last, and thank you very much for the two percent raise, city commissioners. I will endeavor to spend it locally, right here in Brigadoon.

Fortune Favors The Bold

My dog was getting frantic for lack of outdoor walking, and I could tell because, from time to time she raised her head, and her languorous liquid eyes trailed me round the room, full of silent reproach. I determined it was time to drive the car through the endless downpours.


I took her to my favorite spot from which to watch noisy weather and the she immediately turned her back on the views and did what she does best; she chewed a long dead fish head. This was, obviously, going to be a very worthwhile walk.


The gray skies eased up on us just a little bit and for awhile the rain eased to a drizzle and eventually disappeared altogether.


The Gods must have decided we foolish beings, out on the hope of something good, deserved a modest little reward. The seas were remarkably flat...


...considering how windy it was.


That's how it goes in the Keys. The wind roils up waves on one side of the island chain, but leaves the ocean flat on the other. Sometimes the wind blows out of the east and seas seem to stay flat all round. That's the effect of the reefs that keep the waters shallow.


It should have been blusterous and dramatic, but I called the weather's bluff before I went back to work.


It was lovely as usual, not at all wild, but Cheyenne fell asleep, walked and content when we got home. No wonder I need to ride my Bonneville to work in the face of all this weather. It's the only way to really notice it.


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Monday, October 17, 2011

Tree And Sky

I am determined to say nothing about rain. Or bleak grayness. Or my fed up state of mind. Hello tree:


Pretty tree.

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Watering The Garden

Therese is snug back in Paris hunkering down no doubt for a hard core winter such as northern Europeans are used to, meanwhile her creations in my yard appear to thriving, against the odds.


Therese's idea of recreation is to spend time at the plant shop and pot her purchases all round our house thus making the place look nice. Aside from the fact that I am totally unversed in the art of making things grow, I have an abiding belief that plants don't deserve to be killed by my hand. On that score I am doing well.


My Key Limes are sprouting late but finally in abundance and my pomegranate bush, a gift from Dolly and Robert won 't stop producing fruit. I pruned it a bit last Fall and it worked wonders. More of the same no doubt this year. That and Milorganite, a fertilizer produced from Mid Western human turds ( I kid you not!) that is guaranteed not to burn and kill plants. My kind of nitrogen.

Cheyenne enjoys the fruits of my labor too. She actually uses her raised lawn bed I made for her to lounge in, and she loves drinking muddy water that my pineapple shoots are growing in. Dirty water is mother's milk to my Labrador.


I am learning to enjoy looking after the plants. About now is the time to be planting vegetables for winter crops because seasons in the Keys are reversed. And one big advantage of all this damned rain is that time spent watering is zero. I have to find my Zen doing other repetitive tasks.


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Waterlogged

I really do feel bad for Texas. The Lone Star State is in the middle of an epic drought, soil is drying up, cattle are dying and rice is shrivelling up in the paddies. No such problems here in the so-called Sunshine State.


People like to scare me when I talk in a carefree manner of the pleasure I get walking my dog in the mangroves. Snakes! They warn; Rattlers! Which, when you see these islands semi-submerged doesn't seem very likely does it?


More and more rain is expected for at least half this week and yet it seems we are already at capacity. The water level here is almost up to the roadway...

Though Cheyenne bravely tried to lower the level single handedly. She thinks it tastes good.


Gray skies overhead promised more rain and frankly I've had enough. I have no idea why we couldn't lasso some of these black clouds and haul 'em off to Fort Worth.


The thing is I like the idea of being holed up at home with a decent movie and and strong drink on a rainy afternoon, but after the first twenty four hours of continuous drenching rain I am sick of it. If I wanted this crap I'd be in Seattle. I live here because I want sunshine and swimming and sitting on the porch and ...and... and now I sound petulant.

Oh well.


Things could be worse. I could have run out of strong drink.

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Drowning By Motorcycle

I was a little bit surprised when our relief showed up at work exactly on time, exactly as usual. All night long it had rained and rained hard leaving half of Key West under water. Police officers on patrol reported streets all over Old and New Town were underwater.


Reports of flooding at the triangle, the sole exit from Key West seemed like it might pose a problem but I already had my plan: ride the sidewalk. Ha! Which worked well enough except for the moment an eighteen wheeler came by at full speed kicking up a helluva bow wave.


The car in the picture below was stuck in the water with its four way flashers doing their job. Cars swerved around at full speed which completely justified my riding the sidewalk in my opinion. Safety first, always.


As I stood there getting wet and trying to take steady pictures, and failing, a man in a parka came by with a hose. Watering the landscaping? I asked, incredulous. He grinned; fertilizer and pesticide was the answer. It still seemed a little daft to me though I expect I looked pretty stupid too riding a motorcycle under a waterfall.


I thought a picture of the shiny bridge to Boca Chica might express some of the awesome challenge of riding home after five inches of rain had fallen the night before. It doesn't though, does it? It just looks wet, which it was.


Of all the wet rides I've taken it might not have been the worst ever though it was close, and wet certainly. I made it home in one piece despite several tailgaters and quite a few determined high beams in my face all with a side of strong cross winds. My dog came down first to greet me.


My wife passed me on her own way to work on flooded Stock Island while Cheyenne and I planned a luxurious morning in bed. And don't forget the heroic Bonneville which never missed a beat. I love this motorcycle.


It looks good, it rides well and is never any trouble at all. Which should be a lesson to us all. Face the future as though you were a modern Triumph Bonneville.

Oh, and by the way there is nothing but rain in the forecast for the next three days, and so far the heroes of Keys Energy have kept the electricity flowing without interruption. Hats off to them.


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